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<blockquote data-quote="ChefJoe" data-source="post: 202536" data-attributes="member: 546209">You only need a fuse at the battery (for safety).&nbsp;&nbsp; This fuse should be equal to the sum of both your amps max draw (what their fuses are) or as close as you can get to that.&nbsp;&nbsp; The fuse at the battery is strictly to keep your car from having a huge fire if the wire gets knicked.&nbsp;&nbsp; The distro block fuses (if you use a fused distro block...&nbsp;&nbsp; imho, you&#039;re better off saving your $$ and just using an unfused/ground distro block) are there for people who anticipate only blowing one smaller guage fuse in the event they ground something between the amp and the distro block.&nbsp;&nbsp; You can use these to further &quot;tune&quot; when certain wires will have their fuses blow (if they need to blow at some point).&nbsp; Fuses are not reguarded as having any real effect on the current flow, though they do have a really minor one, but the way you&#039;re wiring is in series, so you just add the fuse ratings.Anywho, my big gripe about all the fuses is that 90% of people properly working on their system will not blow fuses, and it just increases the number of places you&#039;ll have to check if you ever were to blow a fuse.&nbsp; After you figure out the time you spend looking for a fuse, the cost difference between the lighter guage fuses in a distro block vs at the battery is meaningless, you&#039;re just increasing the number of places you could have a problem.About the only thing I could possibly see a fused vs unfused distro block being good for is in the event you somehow had a low current short that would be unable to blow the near-battery fuse...&nbsp;&nbsp; I guess it&#039;s possible, but I think it&#039;s extremely unlikely to have a &quot;low current short&quot;.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="ChefJoe, post: 202536, member: 546209"] You only need a fuse at the battery (for safety). This fuse should be equal to the sum of both your amps max draw (what their fuses are) or as close as you can get to that. The fuse at the battery is strictly to keep your car from having a huge fire if the wire gets knicked. The distro block fuses (if you use a fused distro block... imho, you're better off saving your $$ and just using an unfused/ground distro block) are there for people who anticipate only blowing one smaller guage fuse in the event they ground something between the amp and the distro block. You can use these to further "tune" when certain wires will have their fuses blow (if they need to blow at some point). Fuses are not reguarded as having any real effect on the current flow, though they do have a really minor one, but the way you're wiring is in series, so you just add the fuse ratings. Anywho, my big gripe about all the fuses is that 90% of people properly working on their system will not blow fuses, and it just increases the number of places you'll have to check if you ever were to blow a fuse. After you figure out the time you spend looking for a fuse, the cost difference between the lighter guage fuses in a distro block vs at the battery is meaningless, you're just increasing the number of places you could have a problem. About the only thing I could possibly see a fused vs unfused distro block being good for is in the event you somehow had a low current short that would be unable to blow the near-battery fuse... I guess it's possible, but I think it's extremely unlikely to have a "low current short". [/QUOTE]

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