Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
post denied?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="RocIrish585" data-source="post: 7212398" data-attributes="member: 630353"><p>ok, I am getting back into car audio now after years of just living with various stock set-ups. Last time I had a complete custom set-up was about 20 years ago and the subs I had required just over 2 cu. ft. each. the box was the size of a small coffin but I had a 1984 caprice classic so the box was maybe one third of the trunk space.</p><p></p><p>Now I am working on a 2007 PT Cruiser with the standard stock set-up, not the Boston Acoustics upgrade.</p><p></p><p>So far I have purchased Polk db6501 components for the front. the tweeters will go in the sail panel and not the stock 3.5" dash location. Polk db651s slim 2-ways for the rear door location and Polk dxi350 3.5" 2-way for the dash location. My sub is a Polk MM2124DVC, 12" momo. for amps I have a MTX Terminator TN400/4 and a Terminator TN250/1 mono-block for the sub.</p><p></p><p>none of this is installed yet, but as soon as some snow melts and the temp is a bit higher than 12 degrees, I will be elbows deep into it. I am going to use the stock head-unit and stock mounting locations throughout the car to maintain a somewhat stock appearance. I have found that this is the most basic and most cost effective theft deterrent known. NOBODY wants to steal a stock PT Cruiser set-up!</p><p></p><p>so now this brings me to three questions...</p><p></p><p>1. The MTX amps have "smart engage" on the speaker-level inputs that eliminate the need for line-level converters and a remote wire. This may be my inability to let go of oldschool misconceptions but... back in the day, some amps had speaker-level inputs for convenience and ease of setup but my experience was that the sound output was muddy and nowhere near the SQ if you used line-level. Is this poor SQ issue a thing of the past? should I not bother with line-level converters in the hopes that the SQ will be superior to speaker-level?</p><p></p><p>2. My interior set-up is going to be the db6501 components up front, db651s in the rear door, and the dxi350 in the 3.5" opening in the dash. The 4 channel amp will power the front and rear doors but the 3.5's in the dash will run off of the head-unit. my thoughts are that the dash speakers will probably be drowned out by the components... but... i was hoping that they might bring the stage up? any thoughts?</p><p></p><p>3. My sub is a 12" Polk Momo DVC. I know these subs are known for their SQ more so than SPL and that is fine with me. I want accurate responsive bass not boom. This sub though is recommended for small sealed boxes, .88 cu. ft. to be exact. the internal volume of the box I built is 8" x 15" x 14.25" giving me .99 cu.ft. My experience is that I can have about a 10% variance in volume with sealed enclosures with little to no SQ change. My real question is a two-part question... how well should i REALLY expect this sub to perform in such a small enclosure? and is my amp going to be enough to drive it?</p><p></p><p>the amp is an MTX Terminator rated at 200w RMS @ 2ohm. I have been told repeatedly by multiple sources that this amp is very clean and the 200w RMS rating is a bit underrated.</p><p></p><p>ANY answers will be greatly appreciated.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RocIrish585, post: 7212398, member: 630353"] ok, I am getting back into car audio now after years of just living with various stock set-ups. Last time I had a complete custom set-up was about 20 years ago and the subs I had required just over 2 cu. ft. each. the box was the size of a small coffin but I had a 1984 caprice classic so the box was maybe one third of the trunk space. Now I am working on a 2007 PT Cruiser with the standard stock set-up, not the Boston Acoustics upgrade. So far I have purchased Polk db6501 components for the front. the tweeters will go in the sail panel and not the stock 3.5" dash location. Polk db651s slim 2-ways for the rear door location and Polk dxi350 3.5" 2-way for the dash location. My sub is a Polk MM2124DVC, 12" momo. for amps I have a MTX Terminator TN400/4 and a Terminator TN250/1 mono-block for the sub. none of this is installed yet, but as soon as some snow melts and the temp is a bit higher than 12 degrees, I will be elbows deep into it. I am going to use the stock head-unit and stock mounting locations throughout the car to maintain a somewhat stock appearance. I have found that this is the most basic and most cost effective theft deterrent known. NOBODY wants to steal a stock PT Cruiser set-up! so now this brings me to three questions... 1. The MTX amps have "smart engage" on the speaker-level inputs that eliminate the need for line-level converters and a remote wire. This may be my inability to let go of oldschool misconceptions but... back in the day, some amps had speaker-level inputs for convenience and ease of setup but my experience was that the sound output was muddy and nowhere near the SQ if you used line-level. Is this poor SQ issue a thing of the past? should I not bother with line-level converters in the hopes that the SQ will be superior to speaker-level? 2. My interior set-up is going to be the db6501 components up front, db651s in the rear door, and the dxi350 in the 3.5" opening in the dash. The 4 channel amp will power the front and rear doors but the 3.5's in the dash will run off of the head-unit. my thoughts are that the dash speakers will probably be drowned out by the components... but... i was hoping that they might bring the stage up? any thoughts? 3. My sub is a 12" Polk Momo DVC. I know these subs are known for their SQ more so than SPL and that is fine with me. I want accurate responsive bass not boom. This sub though is recommended for small sealed boxes, .88 cu. ft. to be exact. the internal volume of the box I built is 8" x 15" x 14.25" giving me .99 cu.ft. My experience is that I can have about a 10% variance in volume with sealed enclosures with little to no SQ change. My real question is a two-part question... how well should i REALLY expect this sub to perform in such a small enclosure? and is my amp going to be enough to drive it? the amp is an MTX Terminator rated at 200w RMS @ 2ohm. I have been told repeatedly by multiple sources that this amp is very clean and the 200w RMS rating is a bit underrated. ANY answers will be greatly appreciated. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
post denied?
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list
