Reply to thread

Message

<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8427232" data-attributes="member: 614752">Looking straight on at that &quot;box&quot; you posted, the right hand wall is part of the &quot;port&quot;.&nbsp; While the baffle side is short, the long side still holds a column of air against it.&nbsp;&nbsp; SO to figure out the effective port length, you take the depth of the shorter side and add half a port width.Or in other words.&nbsp; Sketch up a top view of that box, then draw a line at a 45 degree angle from the back of the baffle (right at the edge of the port) extending to the right hand wall of the port... that is the port volume/length that the speaker/box &quot;sees&quot;.Or in other other words.&nbsp; If that &quot;port&quot; was in the center of the box, it would need to extend about a foot deep into the box to load the same as it is now due to the driver&#039;s side wall.&nbsp;&nbsp; I tried to sketch it up in gimp but it&#039;s saving in some oddball file format.&nbsp; LMK if you don&#039;t follow I&#039;ll boot up windows and use Paint.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8427232, member: 614752"] Looking straight on at that "box" you posted, the right hand wall is part of the "port". While the baffle side is short, the long side still holds a column of air against it. SO to figure out the effective port length, you take the depth of the shorter side and add half a port width. Or in other words. Sketch up a top view of that box, then draw a line at a 45 degree angle from the back of the baffle (right at the edge of the port) extending to the right hand wall of the port... that is the port volume/length that the speaker/box "sees". Or in other other words. If that "port" was in the center of the box, it would need to extend about a foot deep into the box to load the same as it is now due to the driver's side wall. I tried to sketch it up in gimp but it's saving in some oddball file format. LMK if you don't follow I'll boot up windows and use Paint. [/QUOTE]

Verification