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<blockquote data-quote="Q45guy" data-source="post: 303174" data-attributes="member: 543758"><p>You can cut plexiglass with all of those tools as long as you have the right blade for it and a steady hand. You'll need a fine tooth blade to cut the plexi without cracking or breaking it. For anything under 1/4" plexi I just use my dremel and a spiral cutting bit. I cut just outside of the line and use a file to get it down perfectly. A bastard-rasp file works great as it eats away the plexi fast. Then just use a fine mill file to get a nice edge. After that, follow up with some 400-grit sand paper followed up with some 600-grit wet-sand sand paper. You should end out with a nice edge after all of that. For mounting the plexi, most people route out an edge of the wood where it is to be mounted so it comes out flush. For those pesky square corners a good sharp chisel is the key. As for mounting the plexi, I have seen it done several ways. Most widely used is using small screws. I perfer the clean look with vinyl-rubber double-sided foam tape. It makes for a nice clean install without the industrial look of screws every 2-4 inches. If your going to use screws to mount the plexi, remember to pre-drill and countersink. Start with a small drill bit and move up gradually to the size you need. Starting off with a big drill bit is a recipe for disaster unless you have a full set of drill bits made for drilling into plastics.</p><p></p><p>For the false floor I would use 3/4" weather resistant plywood and route out 1/2" of it to make the window flush. 1/2" plexi is quite thick...you may want to think about going down to 1/4" plexi since this window will be only for an amp rack and not for a box. Another thing to take in consideration is that 1/2" plexi is quite expensive. Hell, for a 1/2" plexi panel measures 40" x 16" I paid $50. Thats for the face of a dual-chambered box with dual ED 12K14's.</p><p></p><p>As long as you think things through you should be ok. Plexi isn't easy to work with....so be careful. Oh...and good luck. :thumbs_up</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Q45guy, post: 303174, member: 543758"] You can cut plexiglass with all of those tools as long as you have the right blade for it and a steady hand. You'll need a fine tooth blade to cut the plexi without cracking or breaking it. For anything under 1/4" plexi I just use my dremel and a spiral cutting bit. I cut just outside of the line and use a file to get it down perfectly. A bastard-rasp file works great as it eats away the plexi fast. Then just use a fine mill file to get a nice edge. After that, follow up with some 400-grit sand paper followed up with some 600-grit wet-sand sand paper. You should end out with a nice edge after all of that. For mounting the plexi, most people route out an edge of the wood where it is to be mounted so it comes out flush. For those pesky square corners a good sharp chisel is the key. As for mounting the plexi, I have seen it done several ways. Most widely used is using small screws. I perfer the clean look with vinyl-rubber double-sided foam tape. It makes for a nice clean install without the industrial look of screws every 2-4 inches. If your going to use screws to mount the plexi, remember to pre-drill and countersink. Start with a small drill bit and move up gradually to the size you need. Starting off with a big drill bit is a recipe for disaster unless you have a full set of drill bits made for drilling into plastics. For the false floor I would use 3/4" weather resistant plywood and route out 1/2" of it to make the window flush. 1/2" plexi is quite thick...you may want to think about going down to 1/4" plexi since this window will be only for an amp rack and not for a box. Another thing to take in consideration is that 1/2" plexi is quite expensive. Hell, for a 1/2" plexi panel measures 40" x 16" I paid $50. Thats for the face of a dual-chambered box with dual ED 12K14's. As long as you think things through you should be ok. Plexi isn't easy to work with....so be careful. Oh...and good luck. :thumbs_up [/QUOTE]
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