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Speakers
Please help me plan a nice front stage.
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<blockquote data-quote="zako" data-source="post: 7554151" data-attributes="member: 629735"><p>These speakers are designed so that the woofer does not need a low pass crossover. According to HAT owner, the woofer plays up to 5000KHz, then starts rolling off. The tweeter uses a capacitor as a high pass filter. The capacitor is on the back of woofer. The tweeter plugs into a connector on the back of woofer.</p><p></p><p>I have these speakers and they really shine when running active. Running them active is very simple. Your head unit's "front" channels run full range and connect to the amplifier pre-amp. The amplifier outs connect to Imagine tweeters directly with a 2.2uF capacitor inserted inline on the positive wire. I didn't want to detach the factory cap from the woofer, so I bought a couple dayton capacitors from PE for $4. The head unit's "rear" channels connect to amplifier and then to the imagines woofer without any crossovers between them. Why would you want to do this? This gives you an ability to tune speakers beyond what's allowed by even the best of passive component sets. You can time align woofers with each other and tweeters with each other (separately from woofers), resulting in very solid imaging and sound staging if you do it right. Another benefit is that you can match the level of tweeters with the woofers a lot better than what's typically allowed by passive crossover boxes.This is what I am running right now, and both imaging and tonality is very good. There are several tutorials on DIYMA about how to tune an active front stage, but even without those, after spending a few minutes to enter some rough parameters, I still like the sound a lot. Very clear midrange. Bass is kind of dry and tight, and there is a good amount of it. The disadvantage of this approach is that you lose two amplifier channels, so if 4 speaker channels is all you have, then you can't run rear speakers AT ALL.. Of course, you can run these speakers in passive crossover mode, but you lose all that ability to tune.</p><p></p><p>HAT web site has some papers on these topics:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.hybrid-audio.com/ARCHIVE_OLD_SITE/White%20Paper%20-%202%20Way%20Quasi-Active%20Crossover%20System.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.hybrid-audio.com/ARCHIVE_OLD_SITE/White%20Paper%20-%202%20Way%20Quasi-Active%20Crossover%20System.pdf</a></p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.hybrid-audio.com/ARCHIVE_OLD_SITE/White%20Paper%20-Imagine-Series%20Crossovers.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.hybrid-audio.com/ARCHIVE_OLD_SITE/White%20Paper%20-Imagine-Series%20Crossovers.pdf</a></p><p></p><p>In fact, this is why I like HAT speakers. I can run them "quasi-active" without owning any equipment with active crossovers. There could be speaker that in passive mode may sound better than these also running passive for the same money. But these speakers are so easy to bi-amp, and you don't get this with every speaker.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="zako, post: 7554151, member: 629735"] These speakers are designed so that the woofer does not need a low pass crossover. According to HAT owner, the woofer plays up to 5000KHz, then starts rolling off. The tweeter uses a capacitor as a high pass filter. The capacitor is on the back of woofer. The tweeter plugs into a connector on the back of woofer. I have these speakers and they really shine when running active. Running them active is very simple. Your head unit's "front" channels run full range and connect to the amplifier pre-amp. The amplifier outs connect to Imagine tweeters directly with a 2.2uF capacitor inserted inline on the positive wire. I didn't want to detach the factory cap from the woofer, so I bought a couple dayton capacitors from PE for $4. The head unit's "rear" channels connect to amplifier and then to the imagines woofer without any crossovers between them. Why would you want to do this? This gives you an ability to tune speakers beyond what's allowed by even the best of passive component sets. You can time align woofers with each other and tweeters with each other (separately from woofers), resulting in very solid imaging and sound staging if you do it right. Another benefit is that you can match the level of tweeters with the woofers a lot better than what's typically allowed by passive crossover boxes.This is what I am running right now, and both imaging and tonality is very good. There are several tutorials on DIYMA about how to tune an active front stage, but even without those, after spending a few minutes to enter some rough parameters, I still like the sound a lot. Very clear midrange. Bass is kind of dry and tight, and there is a good amount of it. The disadvantage of this approach is that you lose two amplifier channels, so if 4 speaker channels is all you have, then you can't run rear speakers AT ALL.. Of course, you can run these speakers in passive crossover mode, but you lose all that ability to tune. HAT web site has some papers on these topics: [URL="http://www.hybrid-audio.com/ARCHIVE_OLD_SITE/White%20Paper%20-%202%20Way%20Quasi-Active%20Crossover%20System.pdf"]http://www.hybrid-audio.com/ARCHIVE_OLD_SITE/White%20Paper%20-%202%20Way%20Quasi-Active%20Crossover%20System.pdf[/URL] [URL="http://www.hybrid-audio.com/ARCHIVE_OLD_SITE/White%20Paper%20-Imagine-Series%20Crossovers.pdf"]http://www.hybrid-audio.com/ARCHIVE_OLD_SITE/White%20Paper%20-Imagine-Series%20Crossovers.pdf[/URL] In fact, this is why I like HAT speakers. I can run them "quasi-active" without owning any equipment with active crossovers. There could be speaker that in passive mode may sound better than these also running passive for the same money. But these speakers are so easy to bi-amp, and you don't get this with every speaker. [/QUOTE]
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