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Please help me plan a nice front stage.
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<blockquote data-quote="BnGRacing" data-source="post: 7552525" data-attributes="member: 557400"><p>If you use MDF to build up your mounting ring, hit it with some primer. MDF doesn't take well to getting wet. As far as fasteners go, sheet metal/drywall screws will be more than fine. A little strip caulk on the back of the ring to make sure it sits flush with the door wouldn't hurt either. Other materials you can use would be cheap plastic cutting boards...but it seems you need to build something out a little more that.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Don't get too caught up in deadening. It's easy to spend over a $100 on your doors alone while not really helping the root of the problem. Deadening does not make your speakers sound better, it's purpose is to lower road noise when your driving. If most of the road noise you experience comes from the firewall or floor, you've just wasted a lot of $ on deadening that won't do much. While it's nice to seal off the door, making a large baffle for the speakers, you can do the same thing with that Peel n Seal stuff. Overall, you'd be better off spending more $ on better speakers than better/more deadening.</p><p></p><p></p><p>See above.</p><p></p><p></p><p>You'll hear a lot of people spout off brands &amp; models - don't pay much attention. There is no specification out there that one can look at and say "oh, these must sound awesome!" and be right 100% of the time. You really need to use your own ears. Watts? Those Massive speakers you posted are 'rated' almost as high as some very good 12" subwoofers. But when push comes to shove, I can guarantee that those mids will go up in smoke first. Don't pay attention to watts, it's a meaningless spec. Same goes for frequency response. Go to a high-end audio store and listen to some speaker towers that cost a couple grand each. They'll all be rated with a relatively flat freq response (60-20k +/- 3db), yet they'll all sound somewhat different...sometimes vastly so...but you'd never know by looking them up online.</p><p></p><p>Things I've always looked for when buying components for myself are how the passives crossovers are made, quality of components used in the crossover, and a big fat tweeter that's usually difficult to install. Why? In my experience the materials used to make the speaker cones doesn't really make much of a difference. Exotic materials &amp; fancy motors do not mean it will sound good. The passive crossovers though, that's where the magic happens.</p><p></p><p>Generally, passive crossovers that are able to be bi-wired/amp'd tend to be of higher quality. There's exceptions of course, but generally those with that capability have a little more thought put into them. There are phase shifts at the passive crossover points and the efficiencies of the tweeter vs. mid will be different at varying frequencies. So there's a bit more to a crossover than just a cap &amp; coil. The best, and perhaps only, way to tell is by listening. With a good crossover even plastic tweeters can sound gorgeous and is another reason why speaker material really doesn't mean that much.</p><p></p><p>Use your ears instead of what you read on a vendor's website and you'll be fine.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BnGRacing, post: 7552525, member: 557400"] If you use MDF to build up your mounting ring, hit it with some primer. MDF doesn't take well to getting wet. As far as fasteners go, sheet metal/drywall screws will be more than fine. A little strip caulk on the back of the ring to make sure it sits flush with the door wouldn't hurt either. Other materials you can use would be cheap plastic cutting boards...but it seems you need to build something out a little more that. Don't get too caught up in deadening. It's easy to spend over a $100 on your doors alone while not really helping the root of the problem. Deadening does not make your speakers sound better, it's purpose is to lower road noise when your driving. If most of the road noise you experience comes from the firewall or floor, you've just wasted a lot of $ on deadening that won't do much. While it's nice to seal off the door, making a large baffle for the speakers, you can do the same thing with that Peel n Seal stuff. Overall, you'd be better off spending more $ on better speakers than better/more deadening. See above. You'll hear a lot of people spout off brands & models - don't pay much attention. There is no specification out there that one can look at and say "oh, these must sound awesome!" and be right 100% of the time. You really need to use your own ears. Watts? Those Massive speakers you posted are 'rated' almost as high as some very good 12" subwoofers. But when push comes to shove, I can guarantee that those mids will go up in smoke first. Don't pay attention to watts, it's a meaningless spec. Same goes for frequency response. Go to a high-end audio store and listen to some speaker towers that cost a couple grand each. They'll all be rated with a relatively flat freq response (60-20k +/- 3db), yet they'll all sound somewhat different...sometimes vastly so...but you'd never know by looking them up online. Things I've always looked for when buying components for myself are how the passives crossovers are made, quality of components used in the crossover, and a big fat tweeter that's usually difficult to install. Why? In my experience the materials used to make the speaker cones doesn't really make much of a difference. Exotic materials & fancy motors do not mean it will sound good. The passive crossovers though, that's where the magic happens. Generally, passive crossovers that are able to be bi-wired/amp'd tend to be of higher quality. There's exceptions of course, but generally those with that capability have a little more thought put into them. There are phase shifts at the passive crossover points and the efficiencies of the tweeter vs. mid will be different at varying frequencies. So there's a bit more to a crossover than just a cap & coil. The best, and perhaps only, way to tell is by listening. With a good crossover even plastic tweeters can sound gorgeous and is another reason why speaker material really doesn't mean that much. Use your ears instead of what you read on a vendor's website and you'll be fine. [/QUOTE]
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Please help me plan a nice front stage.
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