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<blockquote data-quote="John Pionke" data-source="post: 4167600" data-attributes="member: 586350">I have the Alpine MRV-F545 and had the F345, both can go active.&nbsp; If you wanted to go active with that amp, you would put both mids on channels 1/2 and set your crossover point at around 3000hz (use the x20 switch to get this high frequency).&nbsp; Then put your tweets on channels 3/4 and set the crossover point around 3500hz (use the x20 switch again).Just an FYI, I am using my HU&#039;s crossover to cut off the low end (below 80hz) to my mids, and I am using the time alignment capabilities on my HU to help with imaging.&nbsp; If your HU doesn&#039;t have these abilities, I agree with the other posters that going active may not be worth the effort.&nbsp; If you don&#039;t have the abilities, you also will be sending a full low end range of sound to your mids, you may want to be ghetto and get some bass blockers to cut the low stuff out (again, below 80hz).Hope this helps.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="John Pionke, post: 4167600, member: 586350"] I have the Alpine MRV-F545 and had the F345, both can go active. If you wanted to go active with that amp, you would put both mids on channels 1/2 and set your crossover point at around 3000hz (use the x20 switch to get this high frequency). Then put your tweets on channels 3/4 and set the crossover point around 3500hz (use the x20 switch again). Just an FYI, I am using my HU's crossover to cut off the low end (below 80hz) to my mids, and I am using the time alignment capabilities on my HU to help with imaging. If your HU doesn't have these abilities, I agree with the other posters that going active may not be worth the effort. If you don't have the abilities, you also will be sending a full low end range of sound to your mids, you may want to be ghetto and get some bass blockers to cut the low stuff out (again, below 80hz). Hope this helps. [/QUOTE]

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