Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
Passive Radiator question(s)
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="T3mpest" data-source="post: 8300588" data-attributes="member: 560148"><p>You will want extra bracing from the extra moving mass. Also, if your interested, I have a 15inch passive radiator for sale, well 3 of them actually. Very nice ones, better than what your looking at, overkill for your build, but a single would work very well for you. You'd have a 15inch cone with 35mm of xmax, so MORE than enough for your subwoofer you could probably even run a pair at some point and have enough displacement. You may want to consider it. 10mm of xmax isn't much even for a subwoofer, let alone a passive. If you upgrade those daytons will limit you to the point of unuseability. Even a single mid tier 10inch car audio woofer can max out those daytons if you put over 500 watts o ***.. You'd pay about the same for one of my used passives as a pair of those daytons, but an excellent value for what you getting and they are "future proof" so to speak, since one could handle a mid to upper tier 12 by itself.</p><p></p><p>edit: the ones I'm selling also have weight adjustement in the FRONT! You unscrew the dustcap to add weight, much better design than the rear weights that you have remove the passive from the box to change. Adding and subtracting weight to adjust tuning is a major advantage to passives, mine take that advantage to the next level. Also, if you buy it, I can help you design a proper box for your passive, I'm quite knowledgable about passives, and stereo systems in general. (not to be cocky, just offering)</p><p></p><p>You'd want to put the passive on one side of the box, so you'd make to make the box tall and wide enough to mount the passive, but no taller or wider. These are very shallow and come with weight.</p><p></p><p>here is a link to the passives I am a selling</p><p></p><p><a href="http://creativesound.ca/details.php?model=APR15" target="_blank">http://creativesound.ca/details.php?model=APR15</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="T3mpest, post: 8300588, member: 560148"] You will want extra bracing from the extra moving mass. Also, if your interested, I have a 15inch passive radiator for sale, well 3 of them actually. Very nice ones, better than what your looking at, overkill for your build, but a single would work very well for you. You'd have a 15inch cone with 35mm of xmax, so MORE than enough for your subwoofer you could probably even run a pair at some point and have enough displacement. You may want to consider it. 10mm of xmax isn't much even for a subwoofer, let alone a passive. If you upgrade those daytons will limit you to the point of unuseability. Even a single mid tier 10inch car audio woofer can max out those daytons if you put over 500 watts o ***.. You'd pay about the same for one of my used passives as a pair of those daytons, but an excellent value for what you getting and they are "future proof" so to speak, since one could handle a mid to upper tier 12 by itself. edit: the ones I'm selling also have weight adjustement in the FRONT! You unscrew the dustcap to add weight, much better design than the rear weights that you have remove the passive from the box to change. Adding and subtracting weight to adjust tuning is a major advantage to passives, mine take that advantage to the next level. Also, if you buy it, I can help you design a proper box for your passive, I'm quite knowledgable about passives, and stereo systems in general. (not to be cocky, just offering) You'd want to put the passive on one side of the box, so you'd make to make the box tall and wide enough to mount the passive, but no taller or wider. These are very shallow and come with weight. here is a link to the passives I am a selling [URL="http://creativesound.ca/details.php?model=APR15"]http://creativesound.ca/details.php?model=APR15[/URL] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
Passive Radiator question(s)
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list