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<blockquote data-quote="Shinju" data-source="post: 6851583" data-attributes="member: 598877"><p>Would I? Now no, Back in the day Yes and I did. And the manual I was talking about is the online version at the orginal phoenix gold website.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://webfaq.phoenixphorum.com/MS_MPS.htm" target="_blank">MS/MPS Amplifiers</a></p><p></p><p>Q: What might I need to run my amplifier to safely run into 2 ohm bridged?</p><p></p><p>The MS series has no "governor" or "limiter" circuits to restrict it's power supply when you run at lower impedances. This means if your careful and no what your doing, you can get a lot of performance out of your amp.</p><p></p><p>Bridging the MS series to a 2 ohm load is not a problem IF you pay attention to a few basic things:</p><p></p><p>1. If this were the only amp in the system, it would require at least 2 gauge wire from the battery to the rear of the car. Since it is very likely that you will have some amps for mids and highs, I highly suggest running 1/0 wire from front to rear. Then use 4 gauge wire from a distribution block to a minimum 1 farad capacitor. Finally, 4 gauge from the capacitor to the amp. Add more caps if you can afford them and fit them into your install. A 4 gauge ground wire to the rear frame assembly will provide a good ground.</p><p></p><p>There's no need for a dedicated fuse for any MS or MPS amp. However, for competition you may want one anyway to meet the "easy and quick access" judging rules. If the amp were mounted upside down under a quick opening Plexiglas panel or something, that would take care of it.</p><p></p><p>The reason for all the power wiring overkill is a matter of basic ohm's law. For example a MS2125, will TRY to double its power and make about 1,000 watts. However, the size of the amp's power supply will only allow it to make about 720 watts. To make that much power, the power supply MUST have adequate amounts of current. How much? At max undistorted output with typical music material, about 65 amps continuous with peaks (</p><p></p><p>When everything is complete, you can check the voltage drop at the amp's power terminals with the engine idling and no electrical loads turned on. Then play the system at maximum and watch the voltage sag with heavy bass notes. Maximum allowable sag is about 1 volt. Ideally, it should be less than 1/2 volt.</p><p></p><p>2. You'll need cooling fans. Extra power means extra heat. The heatsink isn't large enough to naturally dissipate the heat generated from low impedance operation. This is another reason people like to put the amp upside down under Plexiglas. With an enclosed amp rack and a couple of 3 inch fans on each end (two pushing and two pulling), you can force the air through the heatsink fins.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Shinju, post: 6851583, member: 598877"] Would I? Now no, Back in the day Yes and I did. And the manual I was talking about is the online version at the orginal phoenix gold website. [URL="http://webfaq.phoenixphorum.com/MS_MPS.htm"]MS/MPS Amplifiers[/URL] Q: What might I need to run my amplifier to safely run into 2 ohm bridged? The MS series has no "governor" or "limiter" circuits to restrict it's power supply when you run at lower impedances. This means if your careful and no what your doing, you can get a lot of performance out of your amp. Bridging the MS series to a 2 ohm load is not a problem IF you pay attention to a few basic things: 1. If this were the only amp in the system, it would require at least 2 gauge wire from the battery to the rear of the car. Since it is very likely that you will have some amps for mids and highs, I highly suggest running 1/0 wire from front to rear. Then use 4 gauge wire from a distribution block to a minimum 1 farad capacitor. Finally, 4 gauge from the capacitor to the amp. Add more caps if you can afford them and fit them into your install. A 4 gauge ground wire to the rear frame assembly will provide a good ground. There's no need for a dedicated fuse for any MS or MPS amp. However, for competition you may want one anyway to meet the "easy and quick access" judging rules. If the amp were mounted upside down under a quick opening Plexiglas panel or something, that would take care of it. The reason for all the power wiring overkill is a matter of basic ohm's law. For example a MS2125, will TRY to double its power and make about 1,000 watts. However, the size of the amp's power supply will only allow it to make about 720 watts. To make that much power, the power supply MUST have adequate amounts of current. How much? At max undistorted output with typical music material, about 65 amps continuous with peaks ( When everything is complete, you can check the voltage drop at the amp's power terminals with the engine idling and no electrical loads turned on. Then play the system at maximum and watch the voltage sag with heavy bass notes. Maximum allowable sag is about 1 volt. Ideally, it should be less than 1/2 volt. 2. You'll need cooling fans. Extra power means extra heat. The heatsink isn't large enough to naturally dissipate the heat generated from low impedance operation. This is another reason people like to put the amp upside down under Plexiglas. With an enclosed amp rack and a couple of 3 inch fans on each end (two pushing and two pulling), you can force the air through the heatsink fins. [/QUOTE]
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