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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8674868" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>You want to get signal before the factory amp if possible but when you do that, you are still subjected to the horrible sound quality of your stock head unit, nothing is going to save you from that. With the bluetooth dongle install you are literally just skipping your head unit completely and just playing music straight to the sound processor which literally becomes your new head unit that you can tuck away someplace hidden and you'll get the cleanest possible signal.</p><p></p><p>If you compare it to hard wired to your stock head unit, there's literally no comparison, one will sound like complete sh*t that no amount of audio tuning and fix while the other just sounds amazing even before you do any audio adjustments off the bat and it sounds even better with a good tune. All your audio options and control is done on the phone. Download the dayton dsp app on the apple store or google playstore and play around to see what kind of audio tuning features you get with it. </p><p></p><p>But you can hard wire it with high level speaker outputs from the front and rear or front and sub to get a full range signal from the stock head unit to the DSP and compare it yourself to just playing music straight to the bluetooth dongle. Its pretty easy to switch between the two. To play through your head unit, just play music on your head unit. To play bluetooth, dont play anything on the head unit and pair to the dsp via bluetooth and connect to the dsp on the dayton app as well and viola you can play bluetooth. (if you have a samsung phone 8 generation or higher phone that can connect to two bluetooth devices at once, you'll need to forget the stock head unit's bluetooth on your phone)</p><p></p><p>If you have the JL 6 channel, it will be channels 1 and 2 for tweeters, 3 and 4 for midbass. 5 and 6 full range for rears(or dont do any rears at all and focus all power onto the fronts by bridging the amp for the mids alone. Thats how modern SQ competition cars do it nowadays because any rear speaker destroys the soundstage and center image. Then 7 and 8 for subwoofer. You'll want a seperate monoblock amp for the subwoofer. You definitely want to focus all your money and power to the front stage if what you looking for is killer sound quality.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8674868, member: 650438"] You want to get signal before the factory amp if possible but when you do that, you are still subjected to the horrible sound quality of your stock head unit, nothing is going to save you from that. With the bluetooth dongle install you are literally just skipping your head unit completely and just playing music straight to the sound processor which literally becomes your new head unit that you can tuck away someplace hidden and you'll get the cleanest possible signal. If you compare it to hard wired to your stock head unit, there's literally no comparison, one will sound like complete sh*t that no amount of audio tuning and fix while the other just sounds amazing even before you do any audio adjustments off the bat and it sounds even better with a good tune. All your audio options and control is done on the phone. Download the dayton dsp app on the apple store or google playstore and play around to see what kind of audio tuning features you get with it. But you can hard wire it with high level speaker outputs from the front and rear or front and sub to get a full range signal from the stock head unit to the DSP and compare it yourself to just playing music straight to the bluetooth dongle. Its pretty easy to switch between the two. To play through your head unit, just play music on your head unit. To play bluetooth, dont play anything on the head unit and pair to the dsp via bluetooth and connect to the dsp on the dayton app as well and viola you can play bluetooth. (if you have a samsung phone 8 generation or higher phone that can connect to two bluetooth devices at once, you'll need to forget the stock head unit's bluetooth on your phone) If you have the JL 6 channel, it will be channels 1 and 2 for tweeters, 3 and 4 for midbass. 5 and 6 full range for rears(or dont do any rears at all and focus all power onto the fronts by bridging the amp for the mids alone. Thats how modern SQ competition cars do it nowadays because any rear speaker destroys the soundstage and center image. Then 7 and 8 for subwoofer. You'll want a seperate monoblock amp for the subwoofer. You definitely want to focus all your money and power to the front stage if what you looking for is killer sound quality. [/QUOTE]
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