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Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="WiCKeD 5.9L" data-source="post: 3100921" data-attributes="member: 561183"><p>I hear "upgrade the Big 3" in about every other thread I read on CA. If anyone else was not happy with the explanation of "why" we should be doing this, this article is a good read: <a href="http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/accessories_electronics/0502sc_alt/" target="_blank">http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/accessories_electronics/0502sc_alt/</a></p><p></p><p>The "why" is more of a "what" will happen if you don't. I don't think it addresses why it might put strain on the battery or alternator.</p><p></p><p>I have a basic understanding of the charging system and could not reconcile how this was supposed to help the alternator or increase performance.</p><p></p><p>So here is my take on things...</p><p></p><p>Equipment: Your battery ensures you will always have power, but the discharge rate of a battery is around 12v, while your equipment operates ideally at ~14v. Lower voltage translates to less power delivered and may be noticeable in playback or headlights dimming.</p><p></p><p>Battery: Your battery operates the same as an oversized cap - it is temporary electrical storage. As long as it is working, your car will still run and equipment operate. However, it has a finite number of chemical reactions and the more it is used to power your car's electrical system, the sooner it will fail. By upgrading the wire from the alternator to the battery, you are providing more direct power to your components from the alternator.</p><p></p><p>Alternator: If there is a large power draw, the alternator has to work harder to produce power. With a smaller wire to the battery, less of that power is delivered to the battery and the alternator has to work even harder. Additionally, this unused(?) electrical energy results in heat and excess heat causes damage over time to the alternator. By increasing the wire size, it should allow the voltage regulator to release more current to the battery and electrical system, allowing the alternator to run cooler and spin slower.</p><p></p><p>That's my take on this upgrade anyway. I don't see how the voltage regulator would be able to sense that the wire is upgraded and more current can safely be passed to the battery. Somehow it must be set to only output X amount of current, because otherwise it would burn up the stock wiring. Either that output is variable depending on the wire guage or it is fixed to some maximum amount. If it is fixed, then maybe this upgrade does nothing! How would this do anything on a stock alternator? Someone want to clear that up with some sources?</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.alternatorparts.com/understanding_alternators.htm" target="_blank">http://www.alternatorparts.com/understanding_alternators.htm</a></p><p></p><p>Edit:</p><p></p><p>Okay, so the regulator is able to sense this.</p><p>True?</p><p><a href="http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3135247&amp;postcount=9" target="_blank">http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3135247&amp;postcount=9</a></p><p></p><p>Interesting...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WiCKeD 5.9L, post: 3100921, member: 561183"] I hear "upgrade the Big 3" in about every other thread I read on CA. If anyone else was not happy with the explanation of "why" we should be doing this, this article is a good read: [URL="http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/accessories_electronics/0502sc_alt/"]http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/accessories_electronics/0502sc_alt/[/URL] The "why" is more of a "what" will happen if you don't. I don't think it addresses why it might put strain on the battery or alternator. I have a basic understanding of the charging system and could not reconcile how this was supposed to help the alternator or increase performance. So here is my take on things... Equipment: Your battery ensures you will always have power, but the discharge rate of a battery is around 12v, while your equipment operates ideally at ~14v. Lower voltage translates to less power delivered and may be noticeable in playback or headlights dimming. Battery: Your battery operates the same as an oversized cap - it is temporary electrical storage. As long as it is working, your car will still run and equipment operate. However, it has a finite number of chemical reactions and the more it is used to power your car's electrical system, the sooner it will fail. By upgrading the wire from the alternator to the battery, you are providing more direct power to your components from the alternator. Alternator: If there is a large power draw, the alternator has to work harder to produce power. With a smaller wire to the battery, less of that power is delivered to the battery and the alternator has to work even harder. Additionally, this unused(?) electrical energy results in heat and excess heat causes damage over time to the alternator. By increasing the wire size, it should allow the voltage regulator to release more current to the battery and electrical system, allowing the alternator to run cooler and spin slower. That's my take on this upgrade anyway. I don't see how the voltage regulator would be able to sense that the wire is upgraded and more current can safely be passed to the battery. Somehow it must be set to only output X amount of current, because otherwise it would burn up the stock wiring. Either that output is variable depending on the wire guage or it is fixed to some maximum amount. If it is fixed, then maybe this upgrade does nothing! How would this do anything on a stock alternator? Someone want to clear that up with some sources? [URL="http://www.alternatorparts.com/understanding_alternators.htm"]http://www.alternatorparts.com/understanding_alternators.htm[/URL] Edit: Okay, so the regulator is able to sense this. True? [URL="http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3135247&postcount=9"]http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3135247&postcount=9[/URL] Interesting... [/QUOTE]
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