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Not loud enough!
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<blockquote data-quote="aworldcollision" data-source="post: 5915144" data-attributes="member: 591636"><p>this term "1 ohm stable" is a laugh. Anyway, get a good class D amp capapble of driving 4 ohms very hard. Or get another sub and run the 2 4 ohm drivers at 2 ohms. You can find amps that don't burn up at 1 ohm...but they sure as hell don't sound good at 1 ohm. You're just trying to squeexe too much blood out of the same turnip.</p><p></p><p>Loudness contour curves in car audio are largely in place because road noise causes the most cancellations at the extreme ends of the spectrum. Ever notice how the bass is the first to drop off when on the road? Then the highs, losing detail. You continue to turn it up to the point of ear fatigue which is usually caused by midbass frequencies even though you "think" the fatigue is a function of blaring tweeters, its actually the top end of the midbass.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="aworldcollision, post: 5915144, member: 591636"] this term "1 ohm stable" is a laugh. Anyway, get a good class D amp capapble of driving 4 ohms very hard. Or get another sub and run the 2 4 ohm drivers at 2 ohms. You can find amps that don't burn up at 1 ohm...but they sure as hell don't sound good at 1 ohm. You're just trying to squeexe too much blood out of the same turnip. Loudness contour curves in car audio are largely in place because road noise causes the most cancellations at the extreme ends of the spectrum. Ever notice how the bass is the first to drop off when on the road? Then the highs, losing detail. You continue to turn it up to the point of ear fatigue which is usually caused by midbass frequencies even though you "think" the fatigue is a function of blaring tweeters, its actually the top end of the midbass. [/QUOTE]
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