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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 7333063" data-attributes="member: 576029">sorry, i was on my ipad earlier and typing is just so time consuming (compared to my 80wps on a keyboard) //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifYes, use a DMM to measure amplifier output to determine your gain setting.&nbsp; More on that:<a href="http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/65167/page/1#Post65167" target="_blank">http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/65167/page/1#Post65167</a>Tsunami wire is ok, so is Knu.Sound deadening provides damping.&nbsp; damping requires a visceolastic and elastomeric component that converts vibration into heat.&nbsp; the cheap home depot type roofing products (like peel n seal) do not provide that, therefore they do not provide damping.&nbsp; They will add mass, which can lower resonance, and they can also provide a seal on the door panel.I think the most important part of a budget build is still sealing the holes in the door.&nbsp; sheet metal, self piercing screws, and silicone can achieve that goal.&nbsp; the next important goal is to decouple the speaker; weatherstripping foam is very cheap and should be used between the speaker and baffle, baffle and door metal, and speaker and door panel.&nbsp; those seals are very important.&nbsp; reducing other rattles can be achieved with using fleece or fabric and spray glue to isolate panels. all of this can be done with materials available at a hardware store.&nbsp; will it outperform a fully deadened door?&nbsp; no, not even close.&nbsp; but will it be MUCH better than nothing?&nbsp; absolutely worth the effort.on foam:&nbsp; use closed cell where you want decoupling or where the foam can get wet.&nbsp; use open cell foam only on the dry side of the door (inside).&nbsp; you can use polyfill to stuff in the panel and body cavities where it will not get wet.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 7333063, member: 576029"] sorry, i was on my ipad earlier and typing is just so time consuming (compared to my 80wps on a keyboard) [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] Yes, use a DMM to measure amplifier output to determine your gain setting. More on that: [URL="http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/65167/page/1#Post65167"]http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/65167/page/1#Post65167[/URL] Tsunami wire is ok, so is Knu. Sound deadening provides damping. damping requires a visceolastic and elastomeric component that converts vibration into heat. the cheap home depot type roofing products (like peel n seal) do not provide that, therefore they do not provide damping. They will add mass, which can lower resonance, and they can also provide a seal on the door panel. I think the most important part of a budget build is still sealing the holes in the door. sheet metal, self piercing screws, and silicone can achieve that goal. the next important goal is to decouple the speaker; weatherstripping foam is very cheap and should be used between the speaker and baffle, baffle and door metal, and speaker and door panel. those seals are very important. reducing other rattles can be achieved with using fleece or fabric and spray glue to isolate panels. all of this can be done with materials available at a hardware store. will it outperform a fully deadened door? no, not even close. but will it be MUCH better than nothing? absolutely worth the effort. on foam: use closed cell where you want decoupling or where the foam can get wet. use open cell foam only on the dry side of the door (inside). you can use polyfill to stuff in the panel and body cavities where it will not get wet. [/QUOTE]

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