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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 7330863" data-attributes="member: 576029"><p>1. Some amps require both RCA input pairs be filled, some don't. Depends on the amp. Y-adapters with one female and two male will let you use one pair as you want.</p><p></p><p>2. Every vehicle needs sound deadening. Thin sheet metal is terrible for a speaker enclosure, the vehicle resonance is audible. Sealing the door holes is a huge improvement. Foam is a requirement to maintain seals, weatherstripping foam is perfect.</p><p></p><p>3. 4awg to allow future expansion</p><p></p><p>4. BRAND DOES MATTER! Cheap brands have undersized wire and crappy RCA's. I like Streetwires, rockford fosgate, JL, stinger, monster cable, etc. Brand names.</p><p></p><p>5. Get a wire harness for your vehicle. Remove the existing harness. Make new connections.</p><p></p><p>6. Do you have tools? I have a drawer of parts I use when installing, t-nuts, screws, split loom, carpet, zip ties, and I solder and heat shrink connections.</p><p></p><p>7. You use both gain settings and crossovers. Use a DMM while playing test tones to get ch1/2 and ch3/4 gain equal. Don't rely on dial position.</p><p></p><p>8. Crossover locations depend on where you want to run wire. I have put them next to the amp, in the glove box, behind the head unit, in the door pocket, etc. I have pics of these locations if interested. Just don't put them inside the door where they can get wet.</p><p></p><p>9. Never use seatbelt bolts, suspension bolts, or anything like that. Make a new ground connection. Inspect for clearance on both sides ofmthe floor, drill a hole sized for your bolt, mask off an area sized for your ring terminal, sand away paint, bolt the ring terminal, coat with connector protector or silicone.</p><p></p><p>10. 14awg</p><p></p><p>Listen to speakers before you buy. Ignore everything in the previous post.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 7330863, member: 576029"] 1. Some amps require both RCA input pairs be filled, some don't. Depends on the amp. Y-adapters with one female and two male will let you use one pair as you want. 2. Every vehicle needs sound deadening. Thin sheet metal is terrible for a speaker enclosure, the vehicle resonance is audible. Sealing the door holes is a huge improvement. Foam is a requirement to maintain seals, weatherstripping foam is perfect. 3. 4awg to allow future expansion 4. BRAND DOES MATTER! Cheap brands have undersized wire and crappy RCA's. I like Streetwires, rockford fosgate, JL, stinger, monster cable, etc. Brand names. 5. Get a wire harness for your vehicle. Remove the existing harness. Make new connections. 6. Do you have tools? I have a drawer of parts I use when installing, t-nuts, screws, split loom, carpet, zip ties, and I solder and heat shrink connections. 7. You use both gain settings and crossovers. Use a DMM while playing test tones to get ch1/2 and ch3/4 gain equal. Don't rely on dial position. 8. Crossover locations depend on where you want to run wire. I have put them next to the amp, in the glove box, behind the head unit, in the door pocket, etc. I have pics of these locations if interested. Just don't put them inside the door where they can get wet. 9. Never use seatbelt bolts, suspension bolts, or anything like that. Make a new ground connection. Inspect for clearance on both sides ofmthe floor, drill a hole sized for your bolt, mask off an area sized for your ring terminal, sand away paint, bolt the ring terminal, coat with connector protector or silicone. 10. 14awg Listen to speakers before you buy. Ignore everything in the previous post. [/QUOTE]
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