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New Toyota tundra install. Having several issues
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<blockquote data-quote="winkychevelle" data-source="post: 8821241" data-attributes="member: 611804"><p>Time alignment can move that perfect listening spot around but every speaker has a point in which it starts beaming. The larger the speaker the lower the freequency it starts beaming. </p><p></p><p>Idk how high you have your flutes playing but definitely try and keep them sub 3khz. Mine are actually crossed 50-2khz at 12db and my tweeters are at 4khz at 12db. The added drop off from the mid and tweeter fill in the gap between. </p><p></p><p>Tweeters usually should be mounted within 20° or better to on axis but firing at the windshield has been known to work ok. If the tweeters sound harsh try turning the crossover point up on them or flipping the polarity on the passenger side. </p><p></p><p>Midbass is difficult and each install somewhat unique. Sealed doors a solid mounting surface and a decent seal from the speaker front to door card goes a long way. </p><p></p><p>That said if you have loud tires or high road noise it's going to be difficult to get midbass to the levels needed to overcome that noise. But parked decent midbass should be doable. </p><p></p><p>Measuring frequency response in cabin can give you a clue as to what is happening because it will show you what frequency is missing and which one is excessive. </p><p></p><p>Some vehicles are known to have severe nulls in the midbass range due to cancellation. It is not uncommon for sq style builds to put a small sub up front on the floor board or under the seats to kill that null. Infinite baffle in the kicks is another option. </p><p></p><p>Me personally my next build will be front firing ports on a center console 6th order designed for 30-65hz hopefully allowing the subs to add to the midbass and give me even more chest thumping midbass.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="winkychevelle, post: 8821241, member: 611804"] Time alignment can move that perfect listening spot around but every speaker has a point in which it starts beaming. The larger the speaker the lower the freequency it starts beaming. Idk how high you have your flutes playing but definitely try and keep them sub 3khz. Mine are actually crossed 50-2khz at 12db and my tweeters are at 4khz at 12db. The added drop off from the mid and tweeter fill in the gap between. Tweeters usually should be mounted within 20° or better to on axis but firing at the windshield has been known to work ok. If the tweeters sound harsh try turning the crossover point up on them or flipping the polarity on the passenger side. Midbass is difficult and each install somewhat unique. Sealed doors a solid mounting surface and a decent seal from the speaker front to door card goes a long way. That said if you have loud tires or high road noise it's going to be difficult to get midbass to the levels needed to overcome that noise. But parked decent midbass should be doable. Measuring frequency response in cabin can give you a clue as to what is happening because it will show you what frequency is missing and which one is excessive. Some vehicles are known to have severe nulls in the midbass range due to cancellation. It is not uncommon for sq style builds to put a small sub up front on the floor board or under the seats to kill that null. Infinite baffle in the kicks is another option. Me personally my next build will be front firing ports on a center console 6th order designed for 30-65hz hopefully allowing the subs to add to the midbass and give me even more chest thumping midbass. [/QUOTE]
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New Toyota tundra install. Having several issues
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