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New to modifying car audio systems; would like some help verifying my selection of components.
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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8715457" data-attributes="member: 614752"><p>I believe he is only using one sub.</p><p></p><p>Should be easy enough to get a tape measure and do some double checking on the volume, port area and port depth. DD subs sound good/get loud in the "DD Box" (see DD website). Those ratios work well for most subs that are high motor force and highly damped (stiff suspension). It'll sound really punchy for your rock music and similar. You should really like it. The big caveat being I've had mixed results crowding stuff into trunks. Trunks are notoriously hard to get big sound out of in general and often a smaller box that leaves room for the sound wave to get up front will outperform a bigger box that is wedged in super tight. Trunks are also super finicky with box position and sub/port aiming. Moving things around just a little bit or changing orientation of something will usually make a dramatic change in frequency response and overall output. </p><p></p><p>This box is about 3 cube net and works pretty well as it sits in the trunk of my Corolla. Box was originally used in my old Jeep and I was doing 148 and high change dB with it and it plays music well enough. Subs I use perform very similar to DD "power tuned" type. Anyway, the takeaway here is there's plenty of room for the sound waves to get up front and there's more than a port width distance in front of the port so that can function as intended.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]23150[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>As far as mids and highs, the more speakers you have and the more different location sound is coming from the more problems you're likely to have. What we're generally trying to do is replicate what you'd get in a proper listening room in a house. A left and right speaker and you at the corners of an equilateral triangle. Sound waves from everything hit your ears in phase and exactly at the same time from all sound sources. The higher the frequency in question the more likely you'll run into noticing issues if all the sound isn't coming from precisely the same space. Of course once you consider this is the optimum you can imagine why everything in a car is not conducive to this, but the closer we can get to that from the start the less fuckery you have to do later to try to fix issues.</p><p></p><p>So that said, I'd personally retire the 3" drivers particularly if they're on the dash, I think you'll be hard pressed to get them to sound right and trust me, the type X components on their own on 100W will be plenty loud and clear. Or maybe you're a trial by fire type of guy so give them a whirl but do test without them at least and prepare yourself for the idea of removing them entirely. Less is more much of the time here if your aim is good sound.</p><p></p><p>And yes, you absolutely want to use RCA cables as a source to the amp as opposed to high level inputs.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8715457, member: 614752"] I believe he is only using one sub. Should be easy enough to get a tape measure and do some double checking on the volume, port area and port depth. DD subs sound good/get loud in the "DD Box" (see DD website). Those ratios work well for most subs that are high motor force and highly damped (stiff suspension). It'll sound really punchy for your rock music and similar. You should really like it. The big caveat being I've had mixed results crowding stuff into trunks. Trunks are notoriously hard to get big sound out of in general and often a smaller box that leaves room for the sound wave to get up front will outperform a bigger box that is wedged in super tight. Trunks are also super finicky with box position and sub/port aiming. Moving things around just a little bit or changing orientation of something will usually make a dramatic change in frequency response and overall output. This box is about 3 cube net and works pretty well as it sits in the trunk of my Corolla. Box was originally used in my old Jeep and I was doing 148 and high change dB with it and it plays music well enough. Subs I use perform very similar to DD "power tuned" type. Anyway, the takeaway here is there's plenty of room for the sound waves to get up front and there's more than a port width distance in front of the port so that can function as intended. [ATTACH type="full" alt="23150"]23150[/ATTACH] As far as mids and highs, the more speakers you have and the more different location sound is coming from the more problems you're likely to have. What we're generally trying to do is replicate what you'd get in a proper listening room in a house. A left and right speaker and you at the corners of an equilateral triangle. Sound waves from everything hit your ears in phase and exactly at the same time from all sound sources. The higher the frequency in question the more likely you'll run into noticing issues if all the sound isn't coming from precisely the same space. Of course once you consider this is the optimum you can imagine why everything in a car is not conducive to this, but the closer we can get to that from the start the less fuckery you have to do later to try to fix issues. So that said, I'd personally retire the 3" drivers particularly if they're on the dash, I think you'll be hard pressed to get them to sound right and trust me, the type X components on their own on 100W will be plenty loud and clear. Or maybe you're a trial by fire type of guy so give them a whirl but do test without them at least and prepare yourself for the idea of removing them entirely. Less is more much of the time here if your aim is good sound. And yes, you absolutely want to use RCA cables as a source to the amp as opposed to high level inputs. [/QUOTE]
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New to modifying car audio systems; would like some help verifying my selection of components.
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