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New to modifying car audio systems; would like some help verifying my selection of components.
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<blockquote data-quote="BCotrell" data-source="post: 8715415" data-attributes="member: 666314"><p>Your Deck and that sc4a- </p><p>the sc4a is an loc. You absolutely don’t need that with the Kenwood headunit you have....don’t overbuy gear.</p><p></p><p>sub box- </p><p>“should work with the enclosure you have” is Often the difference between someone reporting that their new system is amazing vs saying “it doesn’t sound as good as I thought it would”. How much room it takes up In your trunk isn’t Really any indicator of its appropriateness to new subs. Better off buying less expensive subs vs cheaPing out on the</p><p></p><p>Also two d2 subs wires to a final .5 ohm load or 2 ohm series parallel. Why wouldn’t you do dual d4’s and optimize the output and efficiency of the amp you pic. </p><p></p><p>3.5 coaxials-</p><p>A comp set and coaxial set in the front is going to be a tuning nightmare. Sell those coaxials and put a comp set in your doors.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BCotrell, post: 8715415, member: 666314"] Your Deck and that sc4a- the sc4a is an loc. You absolutely don’t need that with the Kenwood headunit you have....don’t overbuy gear. sub box- “should work with the enclosure you have” is Often the difference between someone reporting that their new system is amazing vs saying “it doesn’t sound as good as I thought it would”. How much room it takes up In your trunk isn’t Really any indicator of its appropriateness to new subs. Better off buying less expensive subs vs cheaPing out on the Also two d2 subs wires to a final .5 ohm load or 2 ohm series parallel. Why wouldn’t you do dual d4’s and optimize the output and efficiency of the amp you pic. 3.5 coaxials- A comp set and coaxial set in the front is going to be a tuning nightmare. Sell those coaxials and put a comp set in your doors. [/QUOTE]
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New to modifying car audio systems; would like some help verifying my selection of components.
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