Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Join
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Car Audio Build Logs
New to modifying car audio systems; would like some help verifying my selection of components.
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="BCotrell" data-source="post: 8715338" data-attributes="member: 666314"><p>A few comments and agreements with [USER=614752]@hispls[/USER].</p><p></p><p>-1/0 audio or 2/0 welding for you substage power wiring and big 3 if not already planned.</p><p>- that deck is pretty good. I had it in my first 4Runner. I thinnnnk it has active feature, pulled this from the manual. I could be wrong.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]23140[/ATTACH]</p><p>A Focus on front stage (Ditch rear speakers Monday drain) with Active with your type x’s (Ditch passive crossovers) or even using passive crossover in regular Component mode will yield positive results in sound result.Also, in an active scenario with tweeters And mids driven on separate amp channels or the Comp set bridged on a 4 channel should contribute to an improved result. Work that 13band eq for that Desired range but enable it first with control ability and powah</p><p>-that amp is dope but probably a current hog to achieve 1500 watts. The pt is a bigger version of a</p><p>Neon so the factory electrical wasn’t built with a whole lot of extra in the tank. Maybe a md1800.1 taramps full bridge would be better for your electrical environment/electrical efficiency. It would also save you significant dollars on the amp cost.</p><p>- Sounds like you’re trying to keep your current enclosure and just buy new subs. It’s apparent you want new subs but if I had to chose Only one i would be replacing enclosure before buying new subs. All The ******** aside, if you buy new subs have a custom enclosure built for them. A couple sundown sa-12 d4’s match the current market price for those alpines. So would some ampere audio rve 12’s. Beefy pair of 10’s may also give you more flexibility for your trunk enclosure (Space for an second battery maybe) and save you some doll hairs.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BCotrell, post: 8715338, member: 666314"] A few comments and agreements with [USER=614752]@hispls[/USER]. -1/0 audio or 2/0 welding for you substage power wiring and big 3 if not already planned. - that deck is pretty good. I had it in my first 4Runner. I thinnnnk it has active feature, pulled this from the manual. I could be wrong. [ATTACH type="full" alt="23140"]23140[/ATTACH] A Focus on front stage (Ditch rear speakers Monday drain) with Active with your type x’s (Ditch passive crossovers) or even using passive crossover in regular Component mode will yield positive results in sound result.Also, in an active scenario with tweeters And mids driven on separate amp channels or the Comp set bridged on a 4 channel should contribute to an improved result. Work that 13band eq for that Desired range but enable it first with control ability and powah -that amp is dope but probably a current hog to achieve 1500 watts. The pt is a bigger version of a Neon so the factory electrical wasn’t built with a whole lot of extra in the tank. Maybe a md1800.1 taramps full bridge would be better for your electrical environment/electrical efficiency. It would also save you significant dollars on the amp cost. - Sounds like you’re trying to keep your current enclosure and just buy new subs. It’s apparent you want new subs but if I had to chose Only one i would be replacing enclosure before buying new subs. All The ******** aside, if you buy new subs have a custom enclosure built for them. A couple sundown sa-12 d4’s match the current market price for those alpines. So would some ampere audio rve 12’s. Beefy pair of 10’s may also give you more flexibility for your trunk enclosure (Space for an second battery maybe) and save you some doll hairs. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Car Audio Build Logs
New to modifying car audio systems; would like some help verifying my selection of components.
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh