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New to modifying car audio systems; would like some help verifying my selection of components.
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<blockquote data-quote="BCotrell" data-source="post: 8715338" data-attributes="member: 666314"><p>A few comments and agreements with [USER=614752]@hispls[/USER].</p><p></p><p>-1/0 audio or 2/0 welding for you substage power wiring and big 3 if not already planned.</p><p>- that deck is pretty good. I had it in my first 4Runner. I thinnnnk it has active feature, pulled this from the manual. I could be wrong.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]23140[/ATTACH]</p><p>A Focus on front stage (Ditch rear speakers Monday drain) with Active with your type x’s (Ditch passive crossovers) or even using passive crossover in regular Component mode will yield positive results in sound result.Also, in an active scenario with tweeters And mids driven on separate amp channels or the Comp set bridged on a 4 channel should contribute to an improved result. Work that 13band eq for that Desired range but enable it first with control ability and powah</p><p>-that amp is dope but probably a current hog to achieve 1500 watts. The pt is a bigger version of a</p><p>Neon so the factory electrical wasn’t built with a whole lot of extra in the tank. Maybe a md1800.1 taramps full bridge would be better for your electrical environment/electrical efficiency. It would also save you significant dollars on the amp cost.</p><p>- Sounds like you’re trying to keep your current enclosure and just buy new subs. It’s apparent you want new subs but if I had to chose Only one i would be replacing enclosure before buying new subs. All The bullshit aside, if you buy new subs have a custom enclosure built for them. A couple sundown sa-12 d4’s match the current market price for those alpines. So would some ampere audio rve 12’s. Beefy pair of 10’s may also give you more flexibility for your trunk enclosure (Space for an second battery maybe) and save you some doll hairs.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BCotrell, post: 8715338, member: 666314"] A few comments and agreements with [USER=614752]@hispls[/USER]. -1/0 audio or 2/0 welding for you substage power wiring and big 3 if not already planned. - that deck is pretty good. I had it in my first 4Runner. I thinnnnk it has active feature, pulled this from the manual. I could be wrong. [ATTACH type="full" alt="23140"]23140[/ATTACH] A Focus on front stage (Ditch rear speakers Monday drain) with Active with your type x’s (Ditch passive crossovers) or even using passive crossover in regular Component mode will yield positive results in sound result.Also, in an active scenario with tweeters And mids driven on separate amp channels or the Comp set bridged on a 4 channel should contribute to an improved result. Work that 13band eq for that Desired range but enable it first with control ability and powah -that amp is dope but probably a current hog to achieve 1500 watts. The pt is a bigger version of a Neon so the factory electrical wasn’t built with a whole lot of extra in the tank. Maybe a md1800.1 taramps full bridge would be better for your electrical environment/electrical efficiency. It would also save you significant dollars on the amp cost. - Sounds like you’re trying to keep your current enclosure and just buy new subs. It’s apparent you want new subs but if I had to chose Only one i would be replacing enclosure before buying new subs. All The bullshit aside, if you buy new subs have a custom enclosure built for them. A couple sundown sa-12 d4’s match the current market price for those alpines. So would some ampere audio rve 12’s. Beefy pair of 10’s may also give you more flexibility for your trunk enclosure (Space for an second battery maybe) and save you some doll hairs. [/QUOTE]
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New to modifying car audio systems; would like some help verifying my selection of components.
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