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New to modifying car audio systems; would like some help verifying my selection of components.
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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8715335" data-attributes="member: 614752"><p>Really ditch the rears entirely. You won't miss them and once you put a sub in the trunk they'll only be a source of trouble when that pressure wave hits them. If you absolutely insist, type R series are very nice sounding, type X even better. You'll be hard pressed to find anybody who has a bad word to say about either of those series of Alpine. </p><p></p><p>As far as your issue with 2.5K-4Khz range this can be a lot of things which may or may not be solved by: Getting better components (the components or crossover should not be the weak link if you already have the Type X in there). Better aiming/mounting locations for components. Going "active" (using separate channels for mids and tweets, bypassing passive crossover, and using crossovers on amp or head unit to dial in crossover points). Sometimes running one or both tweeters out of phase will tame this sort of issue as well. This kind of **** will drive you crazy trying to sort out but it's all par for the course when you're working in a car.</p><p></p><p>I'm not sure how I feel about DD redline series. I've seen some local doing nicely anything short of the 700 series will not hold with that amp. If you are running the 1 channel amp you mentioned in the first post you should find a dual 2 ohm sub which uses a 3" diameter coil. DD 700, 3500, or 9500 should hang with that amp and you should build the biggest box you can and use the "DD Box" ratio from their website. It will sound very good for the sort of music that's played on musical instruments. </p><p></p><p>Lastly, not sure if this is what you're asking, but stock speaker wire should be adequate to get signal from the amp into your doors or factory locations.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8715335, member: 614752"] Really ditch the rears entirely. You won't miss them and once you put a sub in the trunk they'll only be a source of trouble when that pressure wave hits them. If you absolutely insist, type R series are very nice sounding, type X even better. You'll be hard pressed to find anybody who has a bad word to say about either of those series of Alpine. As far as your issue with 2.5K-4Khz range this can be a lot of things which may or may not be solved by: Getting better components (the components or crossover should not be the weak link if you already have the Type X in there). Better aiming/mounting locations for components. Going "active" (using separate channels for mids and tweets, bypassing passive crossover, and using crossovers on amp or head unit to dial in crossover points). Sometimes running one or both tweeters out of phase will tame this sort of issue as well. This kind of **** will drive you crazy trying to sort out but it's all par for the course when you're working in a car. I'm not sure how I feel about DD redline series. I've seen some local doing nicely anything short of the 700 series will not hold with that amp. If you are running the 1 channel amp you mentioned in the first post you should find a dual 2 ohm sub which uses a 3" diameter coil. DD 700, 3500, or 9500 should hang with that amp and you should build the biggest box you can and use the "DD Box" ratio from their website. It will sound very good for the sort of music that's played on musical instruments. Lastly, not sure if this is what you're asking, but stock speaker wire should be adequate to get signal from the amp into your doors or factory locations. [/QUOTE]
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New to modifying car audio systems; would like some help verifying my selection of components.
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