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Message: <blockquote data-quote="AcidicDreams" data-source="post: 3136866" data-attributes="member: 558974">Ok first off I would like to point you towards another forum that handles more complex questions in a more adult fashion. It's address is <a href="http://www.diymobileaudio.com" target="_blank">http://www.diymobileaudio.com</a> (click forum at the top). There are many people on that forum that have both more knowledge and experience than I do by far. Plus the forum never really seems to devolve into a ***** fight... however they are a little slower with the answers since there are fewer users, most of which have real lives....Now to your questions and a better explanation of what and why I said sound processor and 6ch amp...A) The sound processor - It appears that you are a bit of a perfectionist, have a little money, and you are not afraid to dig into a complex install. This makes me think you might want to go with active crossovers on a 3-way + sub configuration. I know that you can't get any head unit that does a 4-way setup so you'll need a separate piece of equipment to do processing for the 4-way crossover. Now I don't have experience with 4way setups or any individual processor but I have run active and researched going to a 4way setup. From what I gather the most user friendly and powerful way to do this is by utilizing the Alpine H701/C701 combo which you can find here:<a href="http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GR6GAONY6S2/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?g=168450" target="_blank">http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GR6GAONY6S2/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?g=168450</a>You need both the $250 and the $500 units though you can find the combo cheaper used or on ebay. The reason I personally like this unit is not only the flexibility but the fact that the controller uses the Alpine menu system (I already have alpine gear so it'd be natural) and that it looks like a headunit. You could hide the controller away so it doesn't make your dash fugly but placement is up to you...B) The reason I suggest an active system is you can mix/match the speakers until you find a set you want. Plus once the first system is in place you can drop another mid or woofer in place for like $100 and spend a month auditing it rather than swapping the whole **** component system....C) The 6ch amp was recommended because you need amplification for all channels when you run active... so in a 3way system you need 6 ch of amplification plus the sub. You could do a 4ch and a 2ch as well... I'm not sure off the top of my head what a good 6ch with a small footprint would be but I do have some suggestions.The old school soundstream rubicon amps provide alot of power in a small foorprint.Tweeters can run fine on very little power. So you could do a normal sized 4ch amp with 100+w per channel then do a very small 2ch amp of the tweeters... I had looked into doing the same thing but I wanted to bridge a 4ch for my woofers, and I managed to find a couple very small footprint 2ch amps...My suggestion would be to drop over to diyma and chat with them. They have lots of experience with these types of setups and with much nicer equipment than the kids you find here. Many of the more experienced users here also spend time there...Also one final note of clarification. In a non-active setup the signal goes from HU-&gt;amp-&gt;crossover-&gt;speaker... in an active setup it's HU-&gt;Crossover-&gt;amp-&gt;speakers... so in an active setup the amplifiers capabilities as far as processing controls are ignored, you just want good clean amplification, and as mentioned above you need separate amplification for each driver.</blockquote>

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