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New Member / Local Shop Install / Problems :(
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<blockquote data-quote="Canaan" data-source="post: 7239578" data-attributes="member: 566706"><p>Look like they just messed up from the beginning.</p><p></p><p>It would have been best if you just tested the install, then returned it ORIGINAL install settings. Pics would have helped.</p><p></p><p>If you know what you are doing, ask DIRECT QUESTIONS!</p><p></p><p>Perhaps, show them that the fade/balance didn't work. Ask why the sub sounded like it did. Then pull out the JL manual, and ask them to show you that the amp's output voltage matches the (or is even anywhere close to) the JL recommended spec.</p><p></p><p>.</p><p></p><p>.</p><p></p><p>.</p><p></p><p>.</p><p></p><p>.</p><p></p><p>.</p><p></p><p>I'm a retailer, and see alot of BS from 2 other local shops (the other local shops are cool though, try to maintain a good relationship w/ them)</p><p></p><p>Hell, I had a guy come in today w/ a Kicker zx1500.1 install w/ the amp was shutting off all the time. I check the voltage at the amp w/ vehicle running...11.2v, no load to amp.</p><p></p><p>Checked voltage at the batt, 14.8v. Pulled a panel and found that shop's ground. 1/0ga cable, 1 COATED screw thru the ring terminal, bad crimp, paint around the terminal wasn't even sanded away. Just to make sure, checked voltage before and after the fuse holder at the batt, still 14.8v. W/ the amp playing, voltage dropped below 10v. Amp would protect (obviously). Even direct to the ground point, I still got 11.2v w/ no load to the amp.</p><p></p><p>I told/showed the customer that the ground was obviously the problem. 3.6v drop from batt to amp at rest w/ 1/0ga cable??? yea...math doesn't lie.</p><p></p><p>Customer asked if it was the other places fault or was the amp bad, I said....I don't know about the amp, but the ground HAS to be fixed, regardless of the amp. I never changed the install at all, just spiked the contact points w/ my Fluke DMM. Took me 5mins in the parking lot, didn't charge the customer a dime to trouble shoot it. Told him to take it back to that other shop, tell them what I found, have them warranty their install.</p><p></p><p>I could have fixed the failure in another 5mins w/ a wire wheel on my drill, but rather, I told him what they should do to fix it. It would only take them 5mins to fix (an install they originally got PAID FOR) also. But, we will not "go into" any install done outside our shop without giving the customer a 'worst case' total re-install price.</p><p></p><p>/yet another one of my long retail based rants.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Canaan, post: 7239578, member: 566706"] Look like they just messed up from the beginning. It would have been best if you just tested the install, then returned it ORIGINAL install settings. Pics would have helped. If you know what you are doing, ask DIRECT QUESTIONS! Perhaps, show them that the fade/balance didn't work. Ask why the sub sounded like it did. Then pull out the JL manual, and ask them to show you that the amp's output voltage matches the (or is even anywhere close to) the JL recommended spec. . . . . . . I'm a retailer, and see alot of BS from 2 other local shops (the other local shops are cool though, try to maintain a good relationship w/ them) Hell, I had a guy come in today w/ a Kicker zx1500.1 install w/ the amp was shutting off all the time. I check the voltage at the amp w/ vehicle running...11.2v, no load to amp. Checked voltage at the batt, 14.8v. Pulled a panel and found that shop's ground. 1/0ga cable, 1 COATED screw thru the ring terminal, bad crimp, paint around the terminal wasn't even sanded away. Just to make sure, checked voltage before and after the fuse holder at the batt, still 14.8v. W/ the amp playing, voltage dropped below 10v. Amp would protect (obviously). Even direct to the ground point, I still got 11.2v w/ no load to the amp. I told/showed the customer that the ground was obviously the problem. 3.6v drop from batt to amp at rest w/ 1/0ga cable??? yea...math doesn't lie. Customer asked if it was the other places fault or was the amp bad, I said....I don't know about the amp, but the ground HAS to be fixed, regardless of the amp. I never changed the install at all, just spiked the contact points w/ my Fluke DMM. Took me 5mins in the parking lot, didn't charge the customer a dime to trouble shoot it. Told him to take it back to that other shop, tell them what I found, have them warranty their install. I could have fixed the failure in another 5mins w/ a wire wheel on my drill, but rather, I told him what they should do to fix it. It would only take them 5mins to fix (an install they originally got PAID FOR) also. But, we will not "go into" any install done outside our shop without giving the customer a 'worst case' total re-install price. /yet another one of my long retail based rants. [/QUOTE]
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