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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Super_Chicken" data-source="post: 7609831" data-attributes="member: 638156">Hey guys, I've done a few sub installs in the past using a $10 LOC to get signal from HU to amp. This time I'm going balls to the wall and doing a full out sound system in my car.I've got a 2010 4 door VW GTI and I've got pretty much everything needed to do the install.The Parts are as follows:I'm keeping the stock Head Unit.<a href="http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pxe-h660" target="_blank">Alpine PXE-H660 </a><a href="http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=117364" target="_blank">Rockford Fosgate T1000-bdCP</a> (rated 890Wx1 @ 4ohms and 1499Wx1 @ 2ohms on the birth sheet)<a href="http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=107997" target="_blank">Rockford Fosgate T600-4</a> (rated 129x4 @ 4ohms and 200x4 @ 2 ohms)<a href="http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swx-1043d/Specs" target="_blank">Alpine SWX-1043D</a> (10" Sub, 4ohm, rated at 1000W RMS) [This is in a custom sealed box I build to volume spec in the Alpine manual]<a href="http://www.focal.com/en/car-audio-sound/haut-parleurs/kits-2-voies-se-pare-es/165-kr2.php" target="_blank">Focal 165-KR2</a> (rated 80W rms, 2ohm)4 gauge wire kit (that jokingly came with a 1 farad cap, which made me think of how much everyone loves them here so I can't wait to install it /sarcasm)Dynamat (enough for two doors)The Plan:Now this is my first time doing a speaker install or second amp install. I'm fairly capable hands on so I don't think it will be an issue with installing the speakers or tweeters. I'm more just unsure how I should do the wiring.I was going to use a second LOC to tap into the two fronts (there was an existing one tapped into the rears for the older sub), but decided to get a signal processor instead. So I'm assuming I'll have to wire the 8 wires from the headunit (FR/FL/BR/BL) to the signal processor.The output on the alpine is RCA and has Front 1 (L/R), Front 2 (L/R), Rear (L/R), and Sub (Mono only one RCA output not two). I plan on leaving the rears hooked into the stock head unit and use them for rear fill.The QuestionsQuestion #1:For the 4 channel amp would it be be better to use just Front 1 (Single RCA L/R) and run it to the amp and use only two channels (bridged or unbridged??). I'm assuming this would mean I run a single speaker wire to each front door's crossover box that came with my speakers. That crossover box lets me hook up the tweeter and mid to it. And the impedance would be 2ohm + 2ohm (4ohms?)Alternately, (and I think the harder but better solution) would it be better to use Front 1 (L/R) for the two tweeters, Front 2 (L/R) for the mids. Use all four channels of the amp and can set my crossovers for the two tweeters separately from the two mids. Run two speaker wires to each door and directly to the tweeter and mid woofer, skipping the crossover box entirely.Question 2:Either method leaves the Rear (L/R) and Sub (mono) untouched. Would it be better to run the Rear of the sig processor to the 1kW amp, or the mono output instead. (Just because as stated in my older installs I'd tap a LOC to the two rears and then run a RCA cable to the sub amp).These are my only real questions before doing the install. I know to deaden the inside and outside panels of the door, sealing all the holes. As well to put something to absorb sound right behind the speaker and to again ensure everything is well sealed.I guess lastly is to ensure I install that cap in the trunk to make sure I prevent any dimming hahahahahhahah joking I promise!Thanks for all the (future) help guys.</blockquote>

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