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<blockquote data-quote="n2audio" data-source="post: 8308114" data-attributes="member: 540940">The current rating of a fuse means it will pass that much current indefinitely.At 110% of its rating it will function for several minutes, even at 150% it will function for a few seconds.&nbsp; You&#039;d need to get up to about 2x the rated current to blow the fuse at something approaching instantly.Fuse size you choose doesn&#039;t have much to do with the amp and will have no effect on how the amp runs.&nbsp; It&#039;s not like the fuse somehow limits the current getting to the amp -- it just blows when it&#039;s overloaded.&nbsp; The amp draws current as it needs it up to the point that something stops it from doing that -- like a fuse blowing.An amp capable of drawing ~140A during max power tests won&#039;t require anything close to that much playing music.The 80A fuse won&#039;t even be stressed unless the amp is at high output/volume, even then, it might not (probably won&#039;t?) blow.The important thing is to fuse at a safe current rating for the WIRE.&nbsp; If the WIRE you&#039;re using is only good for 80A you&#039;re going to get considerable voltage drop in the WIRE when the amp is running close to or at full volume.If that&#039;s the case, you need to upgrade the WIRE.If your wire&#039;s only good for 80A and it&#039;s fused correctly (80A or less) the fuse fuse will blow immediately in the case of a short.&nbsp; If you had a 140A fuse and the wire&#039;s shorted or grounded the time req&#039;d to blow the fuse would increase and COULD allow for the wire to melt the insulation and cause a fire.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="n2audio, post: 8308114, member: 540940"] The current rating of a fuse means it will pass that much current indefinitely. At 110% of its rating it will function for several minutes, even at 150% it will function for a few seconds. You'd need to get up to about 2x the rated current to blow the fuse at something approaching instantly. Fuse size you choose doesn't have much to do with the amp and will have no effect on how the amp runs. It's not like the fuse somehow limits the current getting to the amp -- it just blows when it's overloaded. The amp draws current as it needs it up to the point that something stops it from doing that -- like a fuse blowing. An amp capable of drawing ~140A during max power tests won't require anything close to that much playing music. The 80A fuse won't even be stressed unless the amp is at high output/volume, even then, it might not (probably won't?) blow. The important thing is to fuse at a safe current rating for the WIRE. If the WIRE you're using is only good for 80A you're going to get considerable voltage drop in the WIRE when the amp is running close to or at full volume. If that's the case, you need to upgrade the WIRE. If your wire's only good for 80A and it's fused correctly (80A or less) the fuse fuse will blow immediately in the case of a short. If you had a 140A fuse and the wire's shorted or grounded the time req'd to blow the fuse would increase and COULD allow for the wire to melt the insulation and cause a fire. [/QUOTE]

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