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<blockquote data-quote="neo_styles" data-source="post: 8001250" data-attributes="member: 644168"><p>Don't believe everything the Crutchfield rep tells you. The real reason you look at 2 ohms vice 1 is that 2 ohms is less taxing on your electrical system. As the impedance gets lower on the amp, it's allowed to suc<span style="color: black">k</span> up more power from the battery and then, in turn, from the alternator. Too much of this and you can risk damaging the alt. When you're talking about 1000W, though, you should be safe and sound. Also, the heat is more of a concern on Class A/B amps since they get rid of their inefficiency more so in heat than anything else. Class D is not as prone to this issue.</p><p></p><p>Honestly, two of those IDQs on that Sedona 2000.1 should be PLENTY. You will most likely not even need to set your gains close to rated RMS to get the most out of that setup.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="neo_styles, post: 8001250, member: 644168"] Don't believe everything the Crutchfield rep tells you. The real reason you look at 2 ohms vice 1 is that 2 ohms is less taxing on your electrical system. As the impedance gets lower on the amp, it's allowed to suc[COLOR=black]k[/COLOR] up more power from the battery and then, in turn, from the alternator. Too much of this and you can risk damaging the alt. When you're talking about 1000W, though, you should be safe and sound. Also, the heat is more of a concern on Class A/B amps since they get rid of their inefficiency more so in heat than anything else. Class D is not as prone to this issue. Honestly, two of those IDQs on that Sedona 2000.1 should be PLENTY. You will most likely not even need to set your gains close to rated RMS to get the most out of that setup. [/QUOTE]
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