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<blockquote data-quote="LaserRed38" data-source="post: 6008043" data-attributes="member: 582808"><p>Man that Ranger is going to be awesome. I'd have a removable box built though. Also, a carputer would not fair well in those types of conditions either. Heat and parts being shaken loose. I haven't looked at a Ranger door in a LONG time, but I'd look into the possibility of doing a 3-way front stage with 8" mids in the doors and fiberglassed kick panels with 4-5" midranges and tweeters. That way, you can have pretty decent bass for your offroad runs.</p><p></p><p>Do you know the difference between active and passive crossovers? There are a couple head units on the market that can do a 3-way front stage plus a sub channel if you wanted to go active 4-way (3-way front plus sub).</p><p></p><p>You say you're going to deaden most of the truck, but correct me if I'm wrong, wouldn't it be better if you just gutted the interior? I run into the same kind of conundrum doing an SQ-based install in a Mustang. Most people fix up a Mustang to be faster/lighter (myself included which is why I'm sticking with 2-way up front and small sub...with no enclosure - infinite baffle setup). Just making sure you know what you're getting in to. Hardcore SQ competitors will use 100s of square feet of deadener in their rides.</p><p></p><p>If you don't want to mess with active crossovers, but are intrigued with 3-way front stages, there are companies like Hertz (I recommend over Focal btw) and DLS and Dynaudio that offer 3-way passive component systems with external passive crossovers. If you're not concerned with super loud bass while you're running offroad, then just stick with a 2-way set-up up front and removable sub box. I wouldn't trust bolting down a box that will be in a vehicle that might see 20-30 ft jumps.</p><p></p><p>Also, don't be afraid of buying used. You can find some really good deals in the Classifieds (it just makes you go broke SLOWER //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif). I don't think you will get the SQ you are looking for if you stick with the iPod only head units. The 9887 is a really good starting point, even if you never use the CD slot. It gives you the option to go 3-way active (2-way up front + sub) if you choose to later and a lot better EQ and tuning options.</p><p></p><p>If you go active I'd do this:</p><p></p><p>-HU: Alpine CDA 9887</p><p></p><p>-Amp: used US Amps AX 5600 or used Audison LRx 5.1k if you can find one</p><p></p><p>-Speakers: piece together a component system from Madisound.com or Partsexpress.com (raw drivers are cheaper than a whole component system) 6.5 mids and 1" tweeters. Many will match up easy and you can use the 5ch amp to power everything; just unhook the sub when you want.</p><p></p><p>-Sub: Incriminator Audio Flatlyne</p><p></p><p>-Wiring: KnuKonceptz (RCAs, speaker wire, power/ground and Big 3)</p><p></p><p>-Battery/Alt upgrades if you want</p><p></p><p>If you stay passive keep everything the same, but you could get a separate 2 channel amp for the speakers and mono amp for the sub, mount the sub amp to the sub box and pull it out when you want. Speakers, either go for the Bostons you heard or DLS/Hertz/Dynaudio/Rainbow. Those are some good brands to start with.</p><p></p><p>Lastly, look into SecondSkin.com. They have a new deadener called "Damplifier Lite". I'm going to be ordering a bunch soon. It's supposed to be a lot lighter, but almost as effective as their normal lines.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="LaserRed38, post: 6008043, member: 582808"] Man that Ranger is going to be awesome. I'd have a removable box built though. Also, a carputer would not fair well in those types of conditions either. Heat and parts being shaken loose. I haven't looked at a Ranger door in a LONG time, but I'd look into the possibility of doing a 3-way front stage with 8" mids in the doors and fiberglassed kick panels with 4-5" midranges and tweeters. That way, you can have pretty decent bass for your offroad runs. Do you know the difference between active and passive crossovers? There are a couple head units on the market that can do a 3-way front stage plus a sub channel if you wanted to go active 4-way (3-way front plus sub). You say you're going to deaden most of the truck, but correct me if I'm wrong, wouldn't it be better if you just gutted the interior? I run into the same kind of conundrum doing an SQ-based install in a Mustang. Most people fix up a Mustang to be faster/lighter (myself included which is why I'm sticking with 2-way up front and small sub...with no enclosure - infinite baffle setup). Just making sure you know what you're getting in to. Hardcore SQ competitors will use 100s of square feet of deadener in their rides. If you don't want to mess with active crossovers, but are intrigued with 3-way front stages, there are companies like Hertz (I recommend over Focal btw) and DLS and Dynaudio that offer 3-way passive component systems with external passive crossovers. If you're not concerned with super loud bass while you're running offroad, then just stick with a 2-way set-up up front and removable sub box. I wouldn't trust bolting down a box that will be in a vehicle that might see 20-30 ft jumps. Also, don't be afraid of buying used. You can find some really good deals in the Classifieds (it just makes you go broke SLOWER [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif[/IMG]). I don't think you will get the SQ you are looking for if you stick with the iPod only head units. The 9887 is a really good starting point, even if you never use the CD slot. It gives you the option to go 3-way active (2-way up front + sub) if you choose to later and a lot better EQ and tuning options. If you go active I'd do this: -HU: Alpine CDA 9887 -Amp: used US Amps AX 5600 or used Audison LRx 5.1k if you can find one -Speakers: piece together a component system from Madisound.com or Partsexpress.com (raw drivers are cheaper than a whole component system) 6.5 mids and 1" tweeters. Many will match up easy and you can use the 5ch amp to power everything; just unhook the sub when you want. -Sub: Incriminator Audio Flatlyne -Wiring: KnuKonceptz (RCAs, speaker wire, power/ground and Big 3) -Battery/Alt upgrades if you want If you stay passive keep everything the same, but you could get a separate 2 channel amp for the speakers and mono amp for the sub, mount the sub amp to the sub box and pull it out when you want. Speakers, either go for the Bostons you heard or DLS/Hertz/Dynaudio/Rainbow. Those are some good brands to start with. Lastly, look into SecondSkin.com. They have a new deadener called "Damplifier Lite". I'm going to be ordering a bunch soon. It's supposed to be a lot lighter, but almost as effective as their normal lines. [/QUOTE]
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