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General Car Audio
Need some guidance with DSP
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<blockquote data-quote="Endogenous" data-source="post: 8670037" data-attributes="member: 676655"><p>Hi everybody, I am in need of some advice with this new age (well new to me) of DSP's and new cars. I have a 2016 Mazda GT (with factory bose speakers/amp). I installed an LC2i with an amp and subs when I first got the car awhile back. Thought I would just keep the bose system forever but im bored of it and want to upgrade the front stage. Im planning to kind of take my time with purchasing the mids/tweets/amp etc and be patient to have something nice rather than be on a tight budget and end up unsatisfied. Im just a little confused and having trouble finding info about DSP's and which one I need/if I need one.</p><p></p><p>So in my previous vehicle I had a DEH 80PRS and a PPi 900.4 running active crossovers with 6.5,s and tweets up front and a separate amp for my subs I f*****g loved it. It was loud, sounded good and was so fun to play with/tune. I wish I could just do the same thing in my current vehicle. </p><p></p><p>Anyways, my goal with this car is to have a Loud and clean sounding front stage. I like SPL but know good sound also. Ive just never been too concerned with perfecting midbass or gotten too much into sound quality aspects like time alignment and all that, I just want loud and clear mids and highs. Is my best bet to ditch this LC2i, buy a Audison Bit ten, a separate 4 channel and some nice 6.5's and tweets for up front that can take some power and have a high sensitivity rating?</p><p></p><p>Im confused with the DSP's. Like if im not concerned with features like time alignment and fine tuning from my laptop can I just run a LC6i to get signal to a 4 channel amp and run 6.5's/tweets? Or does it simply not sound as good as something like a bit ten with the OEM de-eq feature?</p><p></p><p>Also, what about the Dayton 408 DSP? It is significantly cheaper but I cant seem to find out if it offers the de-equalization of the OEM stereo like the bit ten does, I can only find people talking about using it with aftermarket HU's.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Endogenous, post: 8670037, member: 676655"] Hi everybody, I am in need of some advice with this new age (well new to me) of DSP's and new cars. I have a 2016 Mazda GT (with factory bose speakers/amp). I installed an LC2i with an amp and subs when I first got the car awhile back. Thought I would just keep the bose system forever but im bored of it and want to upgrade the front stage. Im planning to kind of take my time with purchasing the mids/tweets/amp etc and be patient to have something nice rather than be on a tight budget and end up unsatisfied. Im just a little confused and having trouble finding info about DSP's and which one I need/if I need one. So in my previous vehicle I had a DEH 80PRS and a PPi 900.4 running active crossovers with 6.5,s and tweets up front and a separate amp for my subs I f*****g loved it. It was loud, sounded good and was so fun to play with/tune. I wish I could just do the same thing in my current vehicle. Anyways, my goal with this car is to have a Loud and clean sounding front stage. I like SPL but know good sound also. Ive just never been too concerned with perfecting midbass or gotten too much into sound quality aspects like time alignment and all that, I just want loud and clear mids and highs. Is my best bet to ditch this LC2i, buy a Audison Bit ten, a separate 4 channel and some nice 6.5's and tweets for up front that can take some power and have a high sensitivity rating? Im confused with the DSP's. Like if im not concerned with features like time alignment and fine tuning from my laptop can I just run a LC6i to get signal to a 4 channel amp and run 6.5's/tweets? Or does it simply not sound as good as something like a bit ten with the OEM de-eq feature? Also, what about the Dayton 408 DSP? It is significantly cheaper but I cant seem to find out if it offers the de-equalization of the OEM stereo like the bit ten does, I can only find people talking about using it with aftermarket HU's. [/QUOTE]
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