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Need opinion on good 3000+ amp
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<blockquote data-quote="Buck" data-source="post: 8800893" data-attributes="member: 591582"><p>See, you coulda just been this way from the beginning.</p><p></p><p>When the coil is energized in the gap, though, that coil itself is emitting an electromagnetic field. IMO, and it’s fine if you think I’m wrong on this: I think there’s certain conditions with many factors outside of the electrical system (as well) where the coil isn’t charged in an aligned phase, and there’s too much feedback back into the amp, including varying pressures across the woofer cone vs the back, that causes electrical feedback into the amp, IMO. With a harmonic system, with how phases and timing works, I don’t see how that’s not possible at some level. There’s still qualities to those internal components and how they’re used, especially if the timing is off. Like, inductors still have a capacitance and harmonic qualities. Even if damping factor isn’t represented in a fair way or in a relevant way, I still can’t help but see that as a factor when buying/comparing amps. I’m not saying that a low DF will ruin your system, either.</p><p></p><p>If poor design or poor quality causes dysfunction within any part of the amp due to rapid frequency shifts in real life (certain harmonic situations), it just seems like the sub could absolutely cause the amp to have issues. I’ve switched out amps before where literally nothing changes but the amp (nothing was blown at all) and directly noticed a wider bandwidth before on the same day from the same or very similar wattage rating, either personally or from installing. I’ve had box design customers that have described the exact same thing, and those tended to be more popular and cheaper full bridge amps with the problems. Idk what to do about this. That’s just been my experience dude, and the only factor manufacturers seem to give that would explain this seems to be the damping factor, even though it’s probably lacking in its completeness.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buck, post: 8800893, member: 591582"] See, you coulda just been this way from the beginning. When the coil is energized in the gap, though, that coil itself is emitting an electromagnetic field. IMO, and it’s fine if you think I’m wrong on this: I think there’s certain conditions with many factors outside of the electrical system (as well) where the coil isn’t charged in an aligned phase, and there’s too much feedback back into the amp, including varying pressures across the woofer cone vs the back, that causes electrical feedback into the amp, IMO. With a harmonic system, with how phases and timing works, I don’t see how that’s not possible at some level. There’s still qualities to those internal components and how they’re used, especially if the timing is off. Like, inductors still have a capacitance and harmonic qualities. Even if damping factor isn’t represented in a fair way or in a relevant way, I still can’t help but see that as a factor when buying/comparing amps. I’m not saying that a low DF will ruin your system, either. If poor design or poor quality causes dysfunction within any part of the amp due to rapid frequency shifts in real life (certain harmonic situations), it just seems like the sub could absolutely cause the amp to have issues. I’ve switched out amps before where literally nothing changes but the amp (nothing was blown at all) and directly noticed a wider bandwidth before on the same day from the same or very similar wattage rating, either personally or from installing. I’ve had box design customers that have described the exact same thing, and those tended to be more popular and cheaper full bridge amps with the problems. Idk what to do about this. That’s just been my experience dude, and the only factor manufacturers seem to give that would explain this seems to be the damping factor, even though it’s probably lacking in its completeness. [/QUOTE]
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Need opinion on good 3000+ amp
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