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Need help tuning port low for a fixed volume box
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<blockquote data-quote="bigbang" data-source="post: 3219424" data-attributes="member: 576408"><p>Hey, thanks for the help everyone. I ended up downloading WinISD beta, best thing I ever did. By draging on the frequency plot, I ended up with a 1.7 cubic foot box tuned to 25 Hz, which is very linear, within a decibel across 25-50 Hz. The port will be 11.5" x 1.75" and 45 1/4" long. This if for just a single sub, but I will be using two, so two symetric sides of these then. Check it out:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb164/20bigbang/box.jpg" target="_blank">http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb164/20bigbang/box.jpg</a></p><p></p><p>Not to bad, I will probably cross the sub over at 63 Hz on my Pioneer deck. The box will be bigger than I wanted, guess I finally have to ditch the spare tire. Fix-a-flat ahoy. Oh well, guess it will give me the chance to do an amp rack on the trunk floor. Kind of sick of it looking like this anyway:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb164/20bigbang/100_4553.jpg" target="_blank">http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb164/20bigbang/100_4553.jpg</a></p><p></p><p>I guess my only questions now are at what point does a slot ported box become a transmission line/labyrinth design? And when designing the port, do I just use a center line between sides of the port as the length I measure? And is it necessary to put those triangular wedges in the corners when doing bends, if it is only air pressure in the port I wouldent think they matter, or are they reflecting waves around the bends? Do they cut down on port noise from inside the port or what? I've only done one ported box to date and it was a simple 8" long 3" PVC pipe sanded on both ends a little. It was very noisy.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bigbang, post: 3219424, member: 576408"] Hey, thanks for the help everyone. I ended up downloading WinISD beta, best thing I ever did. By draging on the frequency plot, I ended up with a 1.7 cubic foot box tuned to 25 Hz, which is very linear, within a decibel across 25-50 Hz. The port will be 11.5" x 1.75" and 45 1/4" long. This if for just a single sub, but I will be using two, so two symetric sides of these then. Check it out: [URL="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb164/20bigbang/box.jpg"]http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb164/20bigbang/box.jpg[/URL] Not to bad, I will probably cross the sub over at 63 Hz on my Pioneer deck. The box will be bigger than I wanted, guess I finally have to ditch the spare tire. Fix-a-flat ahoy. Oh well, guess it will give me the chance to do an amp rack on the trunk floor. Kind of sick of it looking like this anyway: [URL="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb164/20bigbang/100_4553.jpg"]http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb164/20bigbang/100_4553.jpg[/URL] I guess my only questions now are at what point does a slot ported box become a transmission line/labyrinth design? And when designing the port, do I just use a center line between sides of the port as the length I measure? And is it necessary to put those triangular wedges in the corners when doing bends, if it is only air pressure in the port I wouldent think they matter, or are they reflecting waves around the bends? Do they cut down on port noise from inside the port or what? I've only done one ported box to date and it was a simple 8" long 3" PVC pipe sanded on both ends a little. It was very noisy. [/QUOTE]
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Need help tuning port low for a fixed volume box
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