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<blockquote data-quote="Fuzion64" data-source="post: 8696373" data-attributes="member: 658588"><p>The sub has a scratchy sound when I check it on a 9v, but it doesn't move at all reguardless of polarity.</p><p>This is when I put the silver wire on the biggest connector and the copper wire on the smallest connector on the 9v</p><p></p><p>I think the reason it blew or recieved the damage was the fact I had the volume up for testing and I had to LPF all the way up to 200hz so when that frequency sweep went thru the system it messed up my components. Watch out for youtubes autoplay feature the frequency sweep comes right after the tone.</p><p></p><p>My advice put the tone on its own playlist by itself and set it on loop.</p><p></p><p>Its a 12" 4 ohm DVC that was connected in parallel so it was setup for 2 ohms which I didn't know. I only found this out when I went to check everything after it had happened. My voltage was configured for 4 ohms since I didn't know it was wired for 2 oms (Almost double), but I was using the radio too like jeff has previously suggested. I just wanted to make sure I would not exceed 250 RMS, but since I didn't know the shop had set it up for 2 ohms it most likely cost me a sub by exceeding it.</p><p></p><p>So here is the steps I have taken so far using a DMM at AC 200</p><p>Checked the amp voltage by increasing and decreasing watching a multimeter (works fine, voltage still rises and falls)</p><p>Checked the Monster (200a fuse under the hood for continuity (0.00 - intact)</p><p>Checked the (3) 40a fuses on the amp (No broken circuits)</p><p>Checked each speaker wire individually for continuity (All came back fine - 0.00)</p><p>Installed a new sub - It vibrates minimally, but it doesn't hit at all even when I go up thru the volume. I know its in phase, because I checked the whole wiring configuration from the amp to the sub. Its like the sub is getting power, but not pushing out bass at all. I can put my hand on it and feel vibration, but its not much at all.</p><p></p><p>Checked each sub...</p><p>My previous Memphis Audio 250 RMS/ 500w makes a scratchy sound, but doesn't move the sub at all with a 9v test</p><p></p><p></p><p>Next I tested another brand new sub that I bought earlier today</p><p>Pioneer 400 RMS /1500w shallow works fine on a 9v, but plays minimally in the car when connected.</p><p>(Determined forward polarity In phase - Dark Green/Copper = Positive | Light Green/ Silver = Negative)</p><p></p><p>I think the amp is in protect mode so I will most likely try to reset it next by pulling the red battery cable for 30 seconds, then reconnecting.</p><p></p><p>Update: Voltage readings (VOM AC 200 - Memphis Audio 12" 4 ohm DVC wired parallel to 2 ohms)</p><p>The resistance on the left voice coil individually reads 4.2-4.3</p><p>The resistance on the right voice coil individually reads 4.3-4.4</p><p>The resistance on the main speaker wire ends that would goto the amp with the subs wired in 2 ohm parallel read 4.4 using AC 200</p><p>Sub makes a a scratchy sound when I connect it to a 9v, but the cone does not move forwards or backwards.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fuzion64, post: 8696373, member: 658588"] The sub has a scratchy sound when I check it on a 9v, but it doesn't move at all reguardless of polarity. This is when I put the silver wire on the biggest connector and the copper wire on the smallest connector on the 9v I think the reason it blew or recieved the damage was the fact I had the volume up for testing and I had to LPF all the way up to 200hz so when that frequency sweep went thru the system it messed up my components. Watch out for youtubes autoplay feature the frequency sweep comes right after the tone. My advice put the tone on its own playlist by itself and set it on loop. Its a 12" 4 ohm DVC that was connected in parallel so it was setup for 2 ohms which I didn't know. I only found this out when I went to check everything after it had happened. My voltage was configured for 4 ohms since I didn't know it was wired for 2 oms (Almost double), but I was using the radio too like jeff has previously suggested. I just wanted to make sure I would not exceed 250 RMS, but since I didn't know the shop had set it up for 2 ohms it most likely cost me a sub by exceeding it. So here is the steps I have taken so far using a DMM at AC 200 Checked the amp voltage by increasing and decreasing watching a multimeter (works fine, voltage still rises and falls) Checked the Monster (200a fuse under the hood for continuity (0.00 - intact) Checked the (3) 40a fuses on the amp (No broken circuits) Checked each speaker wire individually for continuity (All came back fine - 0.00) Installed a new sub - It vibrates minimally, but it doesn't hit at all even when I go up thru the volume. I know its in phase, because I checked the whole wiring configuration from the amp to the sub. Its like the sub is getting power, but not pushing out bass at all. I can put my hand on it and feel vibration, but its not much at all. Checked each sub... My previous Memphis Audio 250 RMS/ 500w makes a scratchy sound, but doesn't move the sub at all with a 9v test Next I tested another brand new sub that I bought earlier today Pioneer 400 RMS /1500w shallow works fine on a 9v, but plays minimally in the car when connected. (Determined forward polarity In phase - Dark Green/Copper = Positive | Light Green/ Silver = Negative) I think the amp is in protect mode so I will most likely try to reset it next by pulling the red battery cable for 30 seconds, then reconnecting. Update: Voltage readings (VOM AC 200 - Memphis Audio 12" 4 ohm DVC wired parallel to 2 ohms) The resistance on the left voice coil individually reads 4.2-4.3 The resistance on the right voice coil individually reads 4.3-4.4 The resistance on the main speaker wire ends that would goto the amp with the subs wired in 2 ohm parallel read 4.4 using AC 200 Sub makes a a scratchy sound when I connect it to a 9v, but the cone does not move forwards or backwards. [/QUOTE]
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