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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8899228" data-attributes="member: 689267">Well, that&#039;s part of the problem. Not thinking one could actually drive while pilling 300 amps, not even close to being practical in a daily driver, regardless of the potential max based on system total wattage.Few people actually ever get close to that kind of draw unless competing. The highest I&#039;ve clamped is around 78 amps, and that was intolerably loud inside the car, no way one could drive pulling more, at least no in my Hatchback.I think that is where a lot of this gets lost, in the theoretical max draw based on total wattage of a system, versus even extremely loud playback while showing off.This is a vid I often refer to on real world draw versus max capable.[MEDIA=youtube]M8RisjTngt8[/MEDIA]My opinion on the subject is that very few people are actually competing, and those that are, usually know at least as much as I do if not more and are not looking for additional information here.I think there is a lot of hype around extra batteries, extra large cables, etc. It&#039;s useful but many times it&#039;s absolute overkill. I remember running an RF punch 500.2 and a punch 800.4 in my Suzuki Swift Gti, 4 farad cap on both amps, Cadence 2 way 6.5&quot; aluminum cone/silk dome component sets front and rear, dual Pioneer Premier TS-W5102SPL subs, bout blew out the windows but no dimming or power issues then either.Additionally, I&#039;ve swapped out the EVOPS 2400.1 with the Stinger 4K (dual 33v2&#039;s at 4 ohm load) for the hell of it, and back again just to see and in either case, nothing much changes.&nbsp; Even then, the system has a potential max wattage of no less than 2800 watts.My $0.02<a href="https://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_16932_Pioneer_Premier_TS-W5102SPL.aspx" target="_blank">https://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_16932_Pioneer_Premier_TS-W5102SPL.aspx</a></blockquote>

[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8899228, member: 689267"] Well, that's part of the problem. Not thinking one could actually drive while pilling 300 amps, not even close to being practical in a daily driver, regardless of the potential max based on system total wattage. Few people actually ever get close to that kind of draw unless competing. The highest I've clamped is around 78 amps, and that was intolerably loud inside the car, no way one could drive pulling more, at least no in my Hatchback. I think that is where a lot of this gets lost, in the theoretical max draw based on total wattage of a system, versus even extremely loud playback while showing off. This is a vid I often refer to on real world draw versus max capable. [MEDIA=youtube]M8RisjTngt8[/MEDIA] My opinion on the subject is that very few people are actually competing, and those that are, usually know at least as much as I do if not more and are not looking for additional information here. I think there is a lot of hype around extra batteries, extra large cables, etc. It's useful but many times it's absolute overkill. I remember running an RF punch 500.2 and a punch 800.4 in my Suzuki Swift Gti, 4 farad cap on both amps, Cadence 2 way 6.5" aluminum cone/silk dome component sets front and rear, dual Pioneer Premier TS-W5102SPL subs, bout blew out the windows but no dimming or power issues then either. Additionally, I've swapped out the EVOPS 2400.1 with the Stinger 4K (dual 33v2's at 4 ohm load) for the hell of it, and back again just to see and in either case, nothing much changes. Even then, the system has a potential max wattage of no less than 2800 watts. My $0.02 [URL]https://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_16932_Pioneer_Premier_TS-W5102SPL.aspx[/URL] [/QUOTE]

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