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need help choosing the right alternator
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8899136" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>Check out Apex high output alternators, fill out the email form, submit it and they'll reply with options for that vehicle. </p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://apexhighoutputalternators.com/[/URL]</p><p></p><p>That said, may want to skip the alt upgrade altogether using a GloweVoltage Series 1 or 2 as your 2nd battery instead. </p><p></p><p>Not a lot of difference in price, lot less headaches and it supports up to 8k on the stock alt already there.</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://glowevoltage.com/product-category/batteries/[/URL]</p><p></p><p>They are in and out of stock all the time so have to keep an eye out and snag them while you can. </p><p></p><p>I see that you have selected two different brands of components and have to ask why? If you're going to have rear fill of any kind, it's best to be consistent with model an brand. </p><p></p><p>You could save a bit by getting a coax version of components up front, but at the very least, make sure the front and rear tweeters are the same if you are going full range.</p><p></p><p>High frequencies are carried to the ear easiest in a car and having a different HF driver in the rear will pull your ear back, away from the front stage, which is undesirable.</p><p></p><p>I'd also recommend getting a Stinger MT-4000.1. Rated for less RMS but is way underrated and will put that Skar to shame, by a good margin of a couple of thousand watts. </p><p></p><p>And with an email sign up discount of 11%, it's also a nicer amp for $50 less.</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://stingersolutions.com/products/stinger-audio-mt40001-monoblock-amplifier[/URL]</p><p></p><p>Amp dyno on the Stinger 4k.</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]m7e0g4uynG4[/MEDIA]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8899136, member: 689267"] Check out Apex high output alternators, fill out the email form, submit it and they'll reply with options for that vehicle. [URL unfurl="true"]https://apexhighoutputalternators.com/[/URL] That said, may want to skip the alt upgrade altogether using a GloweVoltage Series 1 or 2 as your 2nd battery instead. Not a lot of difference in price, lot less headaches and it supports up to 8k on the stock alt already there. [URL unfurl="true"]https://glowevoltage.com/product-category/batteries/[/URL] They are in and out of stock all the time so have to keep an eye out and snag them while you can. I see that you have selected two different brands of components and have to ask why? If you're going to have rear fill of any kind, it's best to be consistent with model an brand. You could save a bit by getting a coax version of components up front, but at the very least, make sure the front and rear tweeters are the same if you are going full range. High frequencies are carried to the ear easiest in a car and having a different HF driver in the rear will pull your ear back, away from the front stage, which is undesirable. I'd also recommend getting a Stinger MT-4000.1. Rated for less RMS but is way underrated and will put that Skar to shame, by a good margin of a couple of thousand watts. And with an email sign up discount of 11%, it's also a nicer amp for $50 less. [URL unfurl="true"]https://stingersolutions.com/products/stinger-audio-mt40001-monoblock-amplifier[/URL] Amp dyno on the Stinger 4k. [MEDIA=youtube]m7e0g4uynG4[/MEDIA] [/QUOTE]
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