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<blockquote data-quote="TheUnderFighter" data-source="post: 7645782" data-attributes="member: 631325"><p>The substage really doesn't need a lot of bass. But, it's also not going to drown out the front-stage either, so I just wouldn't worry about that. No, you certainly don't need 1600w, but it's nice to have the power on tap and not be pushing your amp to the limits. Also, if you decide to upgrade subs later, you'll already have an amp to push them. Just because you have a 1600w amp, doesn't mean you need to use all 1600w of it. Hell, if you wire it at 2 ohms, it's rated for 1100w, and you can still turn the gain down and have a ton of headroom. Less distortion, less work for the amp.</p><p></p><p>Sealed VS Ported. Sealed is simple, has an equally distributed output range across the frequencies, and offers the least amount of output. Keeps the enclosure small and simple as well</p><p></p><p>Ported is more complicated design, and generally requires about twice as big of an enclosure. However, you do get significantly greater output levels, around the tuning frequency of the port. You might not have as wide of a frequency response range, or as level as one that you get with a sealed box. But, designs can be made that you DO get the output of a ported box, with the response range of a sealed box. All you have to sacrifice is space.</p><p></p><p>That's just some info to get you started, there's a thread on it here: <a href="http:////forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/68635-sealed-vs-ported-basic-info.html" target="_blank">http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/68635-sealed-vs-ported-basic-info.html</a> just remember to take everything as a grain of salt, there are so many variables in car audio, everybody's situation is different.</p><p></p><p>As for subs that will still sound good but trying to back off the price a bit... you can consider these Obsidian Audio 12": <a href="http://obsidiancaraudio.com/index.php?id=6" target="_blank">Obsidian Car Audio</a></p><p></p><p>Or these B-stock Skar Audios: <a href="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/53675-b-stock-skar-inventory-for-sale/" target="_blank">*B-Stock* SKAR inventory for Sale - SSA Car Audio Forum</a> for $130 shipped to your door, that's a pretty unbeatable price. Those are both well-built, quality woofers. They may not be the most SQ oriented of woofers, but unless you're pouring thousands of dollars into your install, they are going to sound just fine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p><p></p><p>And keep in mind the voice coil configurations you need for a desired ohm load, when running 2 speakers together: If you are looking to get a 2ohm load, you'll need a pair of 4 ohm single voice coil drivers. OR 2 ohm Dual voice coil drivers. If you are looking for a 1 ohm load, you'll need a pair of 4 ohm Dual voice coil drivers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TheUnderFighter, post: 7645782, member: 631325"] The substage really doesn't need a lot of bass. But, it's also not going to drown out the front-stage either, so I just wouldn't worry about that. No, you certainly don't need 1600w, but it's nice to have the power on tap and not be pushing your amp to the limits. Also, if you decide to upgrade subs later, you'll already have an amp to push them. Just because you have a 1600w amp, doesn't mean you need to use all 1600w of it. Hell, if you wire it at 2 ohms, it's rated for 1100w, and you can still turn the gain down and have a ton of headroom. Less distortion, less work for the amp. Sealed VS Ported. Sealed is simple, has an equally distributed output range across the frequencies, and offers the least amount of output. Keeps the enclosure small and simple as well Ported is more complicated design, and generally requires about twice as big of an enclosure. However, you do get significantly greater output levels, around the tuning frequency of the port. You might not have as wide of a frequency response range, or as level as one that you get with a sealed box. But, designs can be made that you DO get the output of a ported box, with the response range of a sealed box. All you have to sacrifice is space. That's just some info to get you started, there's a thread on it here: [URL="http:////forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/68635-sealed-vs-ported-basic-info.html"]http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/68635-sealed-vs-ported-basic-info.html[/URL] just remember to take everything as a grain of salt, there are so many variables in car audio, everybody's situation is different. As for subs that will still sound good but trying to back off the price a bit... you can consider these Obsidian Audio 12": [URL="http://obsidiancaraudio.com/index.php?id=6"]Obsidian Car Audio[/URL] Or these B-stock Skar Audios: [URL="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/53675-b-stock-skar-inventory-for-sale/"]*B-Stock* SKAR inventory for Sale - SSA Car Audio Forum[/URL] for $130 shipped to your door, that's a pretty unbeatable price. Those are both well-built, quality woofers. They may not be the most SQ oriented of woofers, but unless you're pouring thousands of dollars into your install, they are going to sound just fine [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] And keep in mind the voice coil configurations you need for a desired ohm load, when running 2 speakers together: If you are looking to get a 2ohm load, you'll need a pair of 4 ohm single voice coil drivers. OR 2 ohm Dual voice coil drivers. If you are looking for a 1 ohm load, you'll need a pair of 4 ohm Dual voice coil drivers. [/QUOTE]
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