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<blockquote data-quote="Phiber Optik" data-source="post: 597582" data-attributes="member: 553378">You said you only have 160amp of combined alternator power...That is your problem, with 160amps and class D amps you would be lucky to produce around 1800wRMS for less then 1 second and then the voltage drop will significantly decrease your power. Let alone headlights dimming and possibly your head unit cutting out.It takes power to make power.Notice the US Amps 6000&#039;s fuse rating is 900 AMPS! That is insane and requires 3 of the largest readily availble alternators fully support the single amplifier at full tilt.I used to own the US Amps 4000X (4000rms x1 @ 4ohm - 400amp fuse) I have a 210amp ohio generator and 2 large dedicated batteries and I was never able to get full power out of it.I suggest you steer clear of A/B power, and perhaps look into Class D power from amps such as;Earthquake D2 or D3, MMats D300, Massive Audio D200X, or the big daddy D400XI hope this helps,</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Phiber Optik, post: 597582, member: 553378"] You said you only have 160amp of combined alternator power... That is your problem, with 160amps and class D amps you would be lucky to produce around 1800wRMS for less then 1 second and then the voltage drop will significantly decrease your power. Let alone headlights dimming and possibly your head unit cutting out. It takes power to make power. Notice the US Amps 6000's fuse rating is [B]900 AMPS![/B] That is insane and requires 3 of the largest readily availble alternators fully support the single amplifier at full tilt. I used to own the US Amps 4000X (4000rms x1 @ 4ohm - 400amp fuse) I have a 210amp ohio generator and 2 large dedicated batteries and I was never able to get full power out of it. I suggest you steer clear of A/B power, and perhaps look into Class D power from amps such as; Earthquake D2 or D3, MMats D300, Massive Audio D200X, or the big daddy D400X I hope this helps, [/QUOTE]

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