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<blockquote data-quote="adulbrich" data-source="post: 8740136" data-attributes="member: 661255"><p>Thanks for the tips guys, but @Bosston on 1000rr.net was right! It was the switch on the right handlebar. I checked the wiring diagram, and the kill switch is a "dead man switch" that cuts power to the fuel pump and injectors. After flipping the switch back and forth several times, I was able to get my bike to start. Flipping the switch while the bike is running kills the engine, but the gauge cluster stays on and the red indicator light comes on. When the switch is in the off position, the fuel pump will not prime when cycling the key.</p><p></p><p>I ordered a new OEM Honda switch for only $42 shipped. Temporarily, I took my switch casing apart and directly soldered the wires connected to the switch. I've rode my bike around all day, starting it 7 times today without problems.</p><p></p><p>Once again, thanks for the help!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="adulbrich, post: 8740136, member: 661255"] Thanks for the tips guys, but @Bosston on 1000rr.net was right! It was the switch on the right handlebar. I checked the wiring diagram, and the kill switch is a "dead man switch" that cuts power to the fuel pump and injectors. After flipping the switch back and forth several times, I was able to get my bike to start. Flipping the switch while the bike is running kills the engine, but the gauge cluster stays on and the red indicator light comes on. When the switch is in the off position, the fuel pump will not prime when cycling the key. I ordered a new OEM Honda switch for only $42 shipped. Temporarily, I took my switch casing apart and directly soldered the wires connected to the switch. I've rode my bike around all day, starting it 7 times today without problems. Once again, thanks for the help! [/QUOTE]
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