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Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
Molding an LCD into a Dash Bezel
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<blockquote data-quote="sqInside" data-source="post: 416927" data-attributes="member: 554070"><p>Let me start off by saying I've glassed a few things before, but never something which has visible surfaces, let alone something which a) I hope to make look OEM-like and b) will be right in your face (dashboard) and very visible..</p><p></p><p>I've made boxes in the past, but now it's time for an LCD...</p><p></p><p>I'm trying to make something which looks like this:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.streeteffectz.com/_common/images/gallery/fiberglass/big/alexdash7.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>More pics: <a href="http://www.streeteffectz.com/gallery.php?cart" target="_blank">http://www.streeteffectz.com/gallery.php?cart</a>[id]=6&amp;cart</p><p></p><p>=0</p><p></p><p>Basically, it would involve molding the LCD front housing into the dash bezel, blending it, smoothing it, and probably painting it..</p><p></p><p>I've actually made 3 attempts already..</p><p></p><p>I thought about not using glass and just using bondo or some other filler, but the LCD is actually just a tad larger than the double-din aftermarket bezel and so it wouldn't fit in the double-din opening when I'm done, so I have to mold it into the top part, too, which houses the air vents. I'm not too worried about the air vents, because I can reroute or make some new ones (integrate smaller vent fins in on top or something) or just not have center air vents like in the M3 above..</p><p></p><p>So what I did was took the top vent and bottom double-din pieces and temporarily taped them together really tight.</p><p></p><p>I have been experimenting laying t-shirt and other materials over the frame, and resin it to make it hard, but it's just not working. :blow_up: The t-shirt wasn't hard enough. Neither was one layer of fiberglass veil (very thin mat ~ 3/4oz). I'm worried if I put too many layers on, it will be too tall on the outside. I just need one really good outer layer (thin) and then I will built it up from the inside to make it durable, but I need to lock in the mold/form/shape first..</p><p></p><p>I thought about making a mold out of expanding foam and then pouring bondo milkshake on over the mold, but I think it would be too lumpy and I'd be sanding for months trying to get all of the dimples out because of the foam won't dry smooth enough...</p><p></p><p>Here's a pic of what I'm actually working with:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.getrealmail.net/~ipvfletch/lcd/dash_bezel.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>And the LCD (not actual size):</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.getrealmail.net/~ipvfletch/lcd/lilliput_vga_touch.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I might experiment with a single layer of trunk carpet. I hear it's much strong when the resin cures, but it might make the piece too thick/tall on the out side..</p><p></p><p>Any ideas???? Thanks in advance!!</p><p></p><p>Kevin</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="sqInside, post: 416927, member: 554070"] Let me start off by saying I've glassed a few things before, but never something which has visible surfaces, let alone something which a) I hope to make look OEM-like and b) will be right in your face (dashboard) and very visible.. I've made boxes in the past, but now it's time for an LCD... I'm trying to make something which looks like this: [IMG]http://www.streeteffectz.com/_common/images/gallery/fiberglass/big/alexdash7.jpg[/IMG] More pics: [URL="http://www.streeteffectz.com/gallery.php?cart"]http://www.streeteffectz.com/gallery.php?cart[/URL][id]=6&cart =0 Basically, it would involve molding the LCD front housing into the dash bezel, blending it, smoothing it, and probably painting it.. I've actually made 3 attempts already.. I thought about not using glass and just using bondo or some other filler, but the LCD is actually just a tad larger than the double-din aftermarket bezel and so it wouldn't fit in the double-din opening when I'm done, so I have to mold it into the top part, too, which houses the air vents. I'm not too worried about the air vents, because I can reroute or make some new ones (integrate smaller vent fins in on top or something) or just not have center air vents like in the M3 above.. So what I did was took the top vent and bottom double-din pieces and temporarily taped them together really tight. I have been experimenting laying t-shirt and other materials over the frame, and resin it to make it hard, but it's just not working. :blow_up: The t-shirt wasn't hard enough. Neither was one layer of fiberglass veil (very thin mat ~ 3/4oz). I'm worried if I put too many layers on, it will be too tall on the outside. I just need one really good outer layer (thin) and then I will built it up from the inside to make it durable, but I need to lock in the mold/form/shape first.. I thought about making a mold out of expanding foam and then pouring bondo milkshake on over the mold, but I think it would be too lumpy and I'd be sanding for months trying to get all of the dimples out because of the foam won't dry smooth enough... Here's a pic of what I'm actually working with: [IMG]http://www.getrealmail.net/~ipvfletch/lcd/dash_bezel.jpg[/IMG] And the LCD (not actual size): [IMG]http://www.getrealmail.net/~ipvfletch/lcd/lilliput_vga_touch.jpg[/IMG] I might experiment with a single layer of trunk carpet. I hear it's much strong when the resin cures, but it might make the piece too thick/tall on the out side.. Any ideas???? Thanks in advance!! Kevin [/QUOTE]
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