Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Join
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Equipment
Speakers
Midbass
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="MiniVanMan" data-source="post: 2939355" data-attributes="member: 573252"><p>Nah, Minivanman is not named Jim.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, not really sure what your problem was last time. It could be any number of things. If your midwoofers were wired out of phase, that may have been the problem. That or they just didn't have enough power. Phasing between 2 woofers wouldn't normally account for a 1 octave loss, but stranger things have happened.</p><p></p><p>Anyway on to the future. That is an AWFUL lot of power you plan on sending those Boston comps. I'd say do the 275 watts to a midbass driver, and send 150-200 to your comps. That's still a ton of headroom. Especially considering the frequencies you're going to ask them to play. The less you ask them to dig deep, the less power you'll need to get good dynamics out of them. Bass takes power. At about 250 hz on up your power requirements dramatically decrease to get good dynamic sound.</p><p></p><p>What kind of vehicle is this going in?</p><p></p><p>A couple of ideas that come to mind for midbasses have been stated before. The L18RNX by Seas is a 7" driver totally capable of that given your doors are properly treated.</p><p></p><p>Nobody has anything bad, or even neutral to say about the Peerless SLS 8". They are some of the best midbass drivers available. They're not overly expensive, but they are deep, coming in at a little under 4".</p><p></p><p>The Dayton RS225 is wonderful midbass, and cost effective too. Comes in either a 4 ohm or 8 ohm version. The 4 ohm comes in at 3 1/2" deep. So that may be your best solution. They're under $50.00 a piece, and are really a nice detailed, and dynamic midbass.</p><p></p><p>Usher makes some fantastic extremely low distortion drivers. They're 8" 8955A would do very well, but has a HUGE magnet and is about $120.00 a piece. It's hard to say that you'll hear the distortion differences in a car, but I thought I'd throw it out there.</p><p></p><p>Personally, I think the RS225 will be fine for what you're asking them to do. For a few dollars more, if you can get the Peerless SLS to fit, then rock on with that bad boy.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MiniVanMan, post: 2939355, member: 573252"] Nah, Minivanman is not named Jim. Anyway, not really sure what your problem was last time. It could be any number of things. If your midwoofers were wired out of phase, that may have been the problem. That or they just didn't have enough power. Phasing between 2 woofers wouldn't normally account for a 1 octave loss, but stranger things have happened. Anyway on to the future. That is an AWFUL lot of power you plan on sending those Boston comps. I'd say do the 275 watts to a midbass driver, and send 150-200 to your comps. That's still a ton of headroom. Especially considering the frequencies you're going to ask them to play. The less you ask them to dig deep, the less power you'll need to get good dynamics out of them. Bass takes power. At about 250 hz on up your power requirements dramatically decrease to get good dynamic sound. What kind of vehicle is this going in? A couple of ideas that come to mind for midbasses have been stated before. The L18RNX by Seas is a 7" driver totally capable of that given your doors are properly treated. Nobody has anything bad, or even neutral to say about the Peerless SLS 8". They are some of the best midbass drivers available. They're not overly expensive, but they are deep, coming in at a little under 4". The Dayton RS225 is wonderful midbass, and cost effective too. Comes in either a 4 ohm or 8 ohm version. The 4 ohm comes in at 3 1/2" deep. So that may be your best solution. They're under $50.00 a piece, and are really a nice detailed, and dynamic midbass. Usher makes some fantastic extremely low distortion drivers. They're 8" 8955A would do very well, but has a HUGE magnet and is about $120.00 a piece. It's hard to say that you'll hear the distortion differences in a car, but I thought I'd throw it out there. Personally, I think the RS225 will be fine for what you're asking them to do. For a few dollars more, if you can get the Peerless SLS to fit, then rock on with that bad boy. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Equipment
Speakers
Midbass
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh