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<blockquote data-quote="MiniVanMan" data-source="post: 2934634" data-attributes="member: 573252">That is EXACTLY what I&#039;m saying!!!!&nbsp; I&#039;m sorry you&#039;re stuck in your car audio dogma.&nbsp; It&#039;s an absolute FACT that when you increase the coil length within a magnetic field you get higher sensitivity.&nbsp; By increasing coil length, you get higher impedance.I will go as far as to say, there are mechanical properties of every driver that need to be overcome before any real output is realized.&nbsp; That makes a 4 ohm driver fairly appealing when dealing with low power situations like using head units (especially stock) to power a speaker.&nbsp; You get more power to overcome the initial mechanical properties of the driver.&nbsp; That&#039;s why Mms is a factor of sensitivity.&nbsp; The stiffer your suspensions, and the heavier your cones (which comes with a lot of your ultra stiff cones like the RS series drivers from Dayton), the more power you&#039;ll need to overcome them before you realize output gains.&nbsp; High Qts drivers generally have stiffer suspensions.&nbsp; High Qts drivers are desireable in a car because of a more controlled low end in an infinite baffle situation.&nbsp; You lose a little low end capability, but your overall sound in the midbass region will be more controlled.When you have a driver such as this, sensitivity can suffer.&nbsp; That&#039;s when we start to hear about things like, &quot;this driver sucks up power, and wants more&quot;.&nbsp; Being limited by a 12 volt source, power at 8 ohms is harder to come by.&nbsp; This was especially true in the early days of car audio.&nbsp; It was a give and take situation.&nbsp; We don&#039;t have as much power to work with, and I can get decent output out of a 4 ohm driver, and since I&#039;m stifled by the mechanical properties of these drivers.&nbsp; I&#039;ll use a 4 ohm driver and give it as much power as available.Now that we have more advanced circuit topologies, and much more efficient amplifiers, we get more power for our initial 12 volts.&nbsp; So, in a high powered application, 100+ watts, it&#039;s actually better overall to use an 8 ohm driver.&nbsp; More efficiency, cooler amps, cooler speakers.&nbsp; Less loss = more efficiency all around.Want to keep going?&nbsp; I can pull out the book.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="MiniVanMan, post: 2934634, member: 573252"] That is EXACTLY what I'm saying!!!! I'm sorry you're stuck in your car audio dogma. It's an absolute FACT that when you increase the coil length within a magnetic field you get higher sensitivity. By increasing coil length, you get higher impedance. I will go as far as to say, there are mechanical properties of every driver that need to be overcome before any real output is realized. That makes a 4 ohm driver fairly appealing when dealing with low power situations like using head units (especially stock) to power a speaker. You get more power to overcome the initial mechanical properties of the driver. That's why Mms is a factor of sensitivity. The stiffer your suspensions, and the heavier your cones (which comes with a lot of your ultra stiff cones like the RS series drivers from Dayton), the more power you'll need to overcome them before you realize output gains. High Qts drivers generally have stiffer suspensions. High Qts drivers are desireable in a car because of a more controlled low end in an infinite baffle situation. You lose a little low end capability, but your overall sound in the midbass region will be more controlled. When you have a driver such as this, sensitivity can suffer. That's when we start to hear about things like, "this driver sucks up power, and wants more". Being limited by a 12 volt source, power at 8 ohms is harder to come by. This was especially true in the early days of car audio. It was a give and take situation. We don't have as much power to work with, and I can get decent output out of a 4 ohm driver, and since I'm stifled by the mechanical properties of these drivers. I'll use a 4 ohm driver and give it as much power as available. Now that we have more advanced circuit topologies, and much more efficient amplifiers, we get more power for our initial 12 volts. So, in a high powered application, 100+ watts, it's actually better overall to use an 8 ohm driver. More efficiency, cooler amps, cooler speakers. Less loss = more efficiency all around. Want to keep going? I can pull out the book. [/QUOTE]

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