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Making my own crossover - need suggestions
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<blockquote data-quote="ciaonzo" data-source="post: 8626500" data-attributes="member: 607015"><p>While using a single inductor may produce a theoretical electrical 6dB slope, if it comes close to matching up with the driver's natural rolloff characteristics on the high end, you'll actually have something more along the lines of a 12dB or 18dB acoustic. This can cause real phase issues with the other "6dB" filter for the tweeter that you're mating up with. I can appreciate what you're attempting to accomplish but flying in the dark is going to waste a lot of your time for what will likely be mediocre results. I mean, at least get some rudimentary frequency response measurements of the drivers in the environment as well as their actual DCR values, and use a decent modeling software. I use the Jeff Bagby stuff for all my home DIY projects, it's pretty powerful and provides excellent results. Compile your .FRD and .ZMA files and go to town.</p><p></p><p>Link --&gt; <a href="http://audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/jbagby.html" target="_blank">Jeff Bagby's Software Page</a></p><p></p><p>2.0mH is pretty decent for addressing baffle step issues for narrow cabinets in home, so in the car it is overly aggressive and robbing you of the range you're describing as missing or lacking. If you want to fly blind, measure the true DCR of the woofer and find the value of inductor that corresponds with something more along the lines of 800Hz-1000Hz. This will keeps things on the warm side but should allow more midrange to shine through.</p><p></p><p>Keep in mind, that woofer may very well have a break-up peak somewhere on the top end (anywhere between 2.5k and 8k) and that will always come through as annoying unless you build in a resonance trap, but you'll likely need a Zobel circuit at that point as well.</p><p></p><p>You can do this by ear but it will take a while. Doing things by ear is usually the final step in refinement of the total crossover network, after proper modeling, and mainly for suiting the room or one's tastes. It's rarely the first step.</p><p></p><p>Best of luck!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ciaonzo, post: 8626500, member: 607015"] While using a single inductor may produce a theoretical electrical 6dB slope, if it comes close to matching up with the driver's natural rolloff characteristics on the high end, you'll actually have something more along the lines of a 12dB or 18dB acoustic. This can cause real phase issues with the other "6dB" filter for the tweeter that you're mating up with. I can appreciate what you're attempting to accomplish but flying in the dark is going to waste a lot of your time for what will likely be mediocre results. I mean, at least get some rudimentary frequency response measurements of the drivers in the environment as well as their actual DCR values, and use a decent modeling software. I use the Jeff Bagby stuff for all my home DIY projects, it's pretty powerful and provides excellent results. Compile your .FRD and .ZMA files and go to town. Link --> [URL="http://audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/jbagby.html"]Jeff Bagby's Software Page[/URL] 2.0mH is pretty decent for addressing baffle step issues for narrow cabinets in home, so in the car it is overly aggressive and robbing you of the range you're describing as missing or lacking. If you want to fly blind, measure the true DCR of the woofer and find the value of inductor that corresponds with something more along the lines of 800Hz-1000Hz. This will keeps things on the warm side but should allow more midrange to shine through. Keep in mind, that woofer may very well have a break-up peak somewhere on the top end (anywhere between 2.5k and 8k) and that will always come through as annoying unless you build in a resonance trap, but you'll likely need a Zobel circuit at that point as well. You can do this by ear but it will take a while. Doing things by ear is usually the final step in refinement of the total crossover network, after proper modeling, and mainly for suiting the room or one's tastes. It's rarely the first step. Best of luck! [/QUOTE]
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