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<blockquote data-quote="req" data-source="post: 742178" data-attributes="member: 555713"><p>correction is like a 'buffer' because the air on the walls of the port has friction to deal with and all kinds of gay things. your tuning wont be EXACTLY 3.124hz or whatever. but it will be close.</p><p></p><p></p><p>yea. basically the flaws of making it with wood... and not - lets say. completly uber smooth space age material with flared ends and rounded edges and perfect cuts and what not... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p><p></p><p>dont imagine the line. take a pencil, and draw the **** thing.</p><p></p><p>get a big piece of paper, and physically draw the entire box down. draw the 'imaginary line' and measure it. now, port correction is a 'dead zone'. its not part of the port, and its not part of the box. its an area- pretend its just space that the port cant use and the box cant use. but it still displaces that small 1"x2"x20" section. so you need to figure that when calculating internal volume.</p><p></p><p>i use autocad to sketch my box designs and get close to my tuning.</p><p></p><p>and yes, the ratio is a 'rule of thumb' if you have little wattage, a smaller port wont matter, the 1:8 ratio is only for port noise (that annoying sound like when a box is not sealed completly) otherwise, use as small of a port as you want (after a point, the SPL will drop however - there are so many ****ing factors //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif)</p><p></p><p>theres lots to know.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.r3q.net/port.html" target="_blank">http://www.r3q.net/port.html</a></p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.r3q.net/req_files/portcalc.zip" target="_blank">http://www.r3q.net/req_files/portcalc.zip</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="req, post: 742178, member: 555713"] correction is like a 'buffer' because the air on the walls of the port has friction to deal with and all kinds of gay things. your tuning wont be EXACTLY 3.124hz or whatever. but it will be close. yea. basically the flaws of making it with wood... and not - lets say. completly uber smooth space age material with flared ends and rounded edges and perfect cuts and what not... [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] dont imagine the line. take a pencil, and draw the **** thing. get a big piece of paper, and physically draw the entire box down. draw the 'imaginary line' and measure it. now, port correction is a 'dead zone'. its not part of the port, and its not part of the box. its an area- pretend its just space that the port cant use and the box cant use. but it still displaces that small 1"x2"x20" section. so you need to figure that when calculating internal volume. i use autocad to sketch my box designs and get close to my tuning. and yes, the ratio is a 'rule of thumb' if you have little wattage, a smaller port wont matter, the 1:8 ratio is only for port noise (that annoying sound like when a box is not sealed completly) otherwise, use as small of a port as you want (after a point, the SPL will drop however - there are so many ****ing factors [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif[/IMG]) theres lots to know. [URL="http://www.r3q.net/port.html"]http://www.r3q.net/port.html[/URL] [URL="http://www.r3q.net/req_files/portcalc.zip"]http://www.r3q.net/req_files/portcalc.zip[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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