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<blockquote data-quote="alvitae" data-source="post: 6039640" data-attributes="member: 597450">My first set up was a budget deal, Like most peoples. But the thing I learned from it was matching subs to power was real important. I walked into a stereo store and said what is the cheapest subs you have, They handed me two Powerbass PS 12&#039;s for 90 bucks. 250 rms 500 peak.I had them on a &quot;850&quot; watt Kenwood amp. in a slot port with long ports tuned to 40 I believe. It did 142.1 Term-lab in the trunk. Not bad for 200$ counting the amp. I already had the box and 4 gauge.For low wattage, Light efficient subs are an option. Yes even cheap subs can work for good for you. Didn&#039;t sound half bad either. Plus that system was still pounding when I sold it a year later.Edit: Stock electrical pretty much. 4 gauge and an old battery that came with the car. 96 Ford Contour. later I added a small Audioforce 220 battery. One of the little ones the size of a kinetic 600.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="alvitae, post: 6039640, member: 597450"] My first set up was a budget deal, Like most peoples. But the thing I learned from it was matching subs to power was real important. I walked into a stereo store and said what is the cheapest subs you have, They handed me two Powerbass PS 12's for 90 bucks. 250 rms 500 peak.I had them on a "850" watt Kenwood amp. in a slot port with long ports tuned to 40 I believe. It did 142.1 Term-lab in the trunk. Not bad for 200$ counting the amp. I already had the box and 4 gauge. For low wattage, Light efficient subs are an option. Yes even cheap subs can work for good for you. Didn't sound half bad either. Plus that system was still pounding when I sold it a year later. Edit: Stock electrical pretty much. 4 gauge and an old battery that came with the car. 96 Ford Contour. later I added a small Audioforce 220 battery. One of the little ones the size of a kinetic 600. [/QUOTE]

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