Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Join
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Loudest no-wall suv's?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8403215" data-attributes="member: 614752"><p>Yes, just clarifying my reasoning.</p><p></p><p>Impedance curves are all over the place. Just looked at my numbers for a TC9 motor with ZV2 coil + softparts. 4 ohm nominal (d2 in series) sits at nearly 8 ohm at 20hz rises up to 40 ohm at 38hz then drops pretty fast down to about 6 ohm in the mid 50hz range. TC9 by far is NOT a super strong motor!</p><p></p><p>Also by this example we can see a situation where someone is playing their favorite DJ Whalesong 33hz "music" and the amp is seeing 30 ohms thinking "my sub can take 4000W all day erry day", and where if they tried the same thing at 53hz they'd be in trouble in a hurry.</p><p></p><p>I would be hesitant to make any generalizations about impedance curves of drivers based on motor material or "strength". Also these all change with sub in a box then with the sub and box in a car, but you get the idea.</p><p></p><p>And yes, as you say, the highest impedance is generally the most efficient, though it's often a tradeoff between the high impedance and efficiency gained by resonance or the gain of possibly 4 to 6X the power by building your subs to peak high but somewhere not around your peak.</p><p></p><p>I think it largely comes down to trial and error if you're really trying to squeeze out 10ths. I've seen significant gains from just using an aluminum over a copper coil, using a stiffer or looser suspension, etc. If you enjoy building subs and testing, playing around looking for the perfect mix might be fun, otherwise I think most people would do best just to pick a platform they like and build around what that likes to do, changing platforms only if they absolutely have tried everything else to work around.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8403215, member: 614752"] Yes, just clarifying my reasoning. Impedance curves are all over the place. Just looked at my numbers for a TC9 motor with ZV2 coil + softparts. 4 ohm nominal (d2 in series) sits at nearly 8 ohm at 20hz rises up to 40 ohm at 38hz then drops pretty fast down to about 6 ohm in the mid 50hz range. TC9 by far is NOT a super strong motor! Also by this example we can see a situation where someone is playing their favorite DJ Whalesong 33hz "music" and the amp is seeing 30 ohms thinking "my sub can take 4000W all day erry day", and where if they tried the same thing at 53hz they'd be in trouble in a hurry. I would be hesitant to make any generalizations about impedance curves of drivers based on motor material or "strength". Also these all change with sub in a box then with the sub and box in a car, but you get the idea. And yes, as you say, the highest impedance is generally the most efficient, though it's often a tradeoff between the high impedance and efficiency gained by resonance or the gain of possibly 4 to 6X the power by building your subs to peak high but somewhere not around your peak. I think it largely comes down to trial and error if you're really trying to squeeze out 10ths. I've seen significant gains from just using an aluminum over a copper coil, using a stiffer or looser suspension, etc. If you enjoy building subs and testing, playing around looking for the perfect mix might be fun, otherwise I think most people would do best just to pick a platform they like and build around what that likes to do, changing platforms only if they absolutely have tried everything else to work around. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Loudest no-wall suv's?
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh