Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Looking for car gurus' help with boat build
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="merlinjet" data-source="post: 8674546" data-attributes="member: 676935"><p>Ok, settling in on reality here, I've come up with a new plan:Replace existing Seaworthys with Kicker 6.5"s in the cabin and bow and add the Kicker IB Sub. These would all be powered by a Polk 5000.5 amp. Add 2 x Kicker 8" cans to the tower powered by a Polk 2000.2 amp. All these controlled from an Exile ZLD 3 zone controller with BT receiver. This makes the replacing the HU/remote a waste of time and money. The Kicker 8" replacement I planned for the rear cabin 6.5"s became a real pain trying to match amps to their power demand (150w) and integrate them with the bow 6'5"s as a zone. So, I'm going the KISS route and sticking with 6.5"s for now all around; will add 2 more 6.5"s midship next year, maybe. Now I'll have 3 zones; cabin, tower, sub, all managed from the ZLD. All this comes in right about at my budget...includes some refurb stuff from Polk but I'm OK with that.</p><p></p><p>Better plan?</p><p></p><p><a href="https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/Im...7PAD5K5_DL.PDF" target="_blank">https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/Im...7PAD5K5_DL.PDF</a><a href="https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/Im...7PAD2K2_DL.PDF" target="_blank">https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/Im...7PAD2K2_DL.PDF</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="merlinjet, post: 8674546, member: 676935"] Ok, settling in on reality here, I've come up with a new plan:Replace existing Seaworthys with Kicker 6.5"s in the cabin and bow and add the Kicker IB Sub. These would all be powered by a Polk 5000.5 amp. Add 2 x Kicker 8" cans to the tower powered by a Polk 2000.2 amp. All these controlled from an Exile ZLD 3 zone controller with BT receiver. This makes the replacing the HU/remote a waste of time and money. The Kicker 8" replacement I planned for the rear cabin 6.5"s became a real pain trying to match amps to their power demand (150w) and integrate them with the bow 6'5"s as a zone. So, I'm going the KISS route and sticking with 6.5"s for now all around; will add 2 more 6.5"s midship next year, maybe. Now I'll have 3 zones; cabin, tower, sub, all managed from the ZLD. All this comes in right about at my budget...includes some refurb stuff from Polk but I'm OK with that. Better plan? [URL="https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/Im...7PAD5K5_DL.PDF"]https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/Im...7PAD5K5_DL.PDF[/URL][URL="https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/Im...7PAD2K2_DL.PDF"]https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/Im...7PAD2K2_DL.PDF[/URL] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Looking for car gurus' help with boat build
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list