Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Builds
Car Audio Build Logs
Little bit different build - Nissan leaf
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="defiance" data-source="post: 7345802" data-attributes="member: 549442"><p>Well, I made some progress... Here's the main piece and the back piece.</p><p></p><p><img src="http:////forums/attachments/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/26525021d1306638785-little-bit-different-build-nissan-leaf-dscn1642.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The back of the trunk slants up toward the latch at a steep angle, so the crossover will mount on that part while the main board mounts in the floor itself.</p><p></p><p>In order to get the flush mount, the surfaces of all the components have to be at the same height, so I "stilted" the crossovers and fuses to get them to the exact 2-1/8" height of the amps.</p><p></p><p><img src="http:////forums/attachments/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/26525020d1306638782-little-bit-different-build-nissan-leaf-dscn1646.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Also, you'll note what's missing from this pic: the fuse blocks have no input power wires. I had thought my main fuse had two 0-gauge connections, so I'd run the 0-gauge wire to it, then take a 4-gauge from the other connector to the other block. Unfortunately, I was wrong, each block only has one input (one a 4 and one a 0). So, I need another distribution block - one with two 0-gauge connections and a 4-gauge connection.</p><p></p><p>Which, as luck would have it, is a far-from-common configuration. Nobody local has one, so I get to order, and the amp rack hangs in limbo. Joy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif</p><p></p><p><img src="http:////forums/attachments/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/26525019d1306638779-little-bit-different-build-nissan-leaf-dscn1649.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The white box is a home phone wire connector; the remote gain for the sub amp and the image adjustment knob for the crossover both use 6-wire telephone cable; this gives me a quick-disconnect to remove the amp rack without tearing up all the wire routing to dig the telephone wires out. In fact, most of the wires will be that way; the ground wires will all bolt to a common point to the left of the rack, the input RCAs connect via barrel connectors in the same general area, the main power wire will connect to the single block (the one i'm missing) just to the left of the rack, and both sides have a rack of screw terminals for speaker wire connections. Connecting/Disconnecting all the wires for this should be a 5-minute job.</p><p></p><p>Oh, also of note, the extra bundle of wires going off either end is to connect to the EQT's, which will be mounted vertically on either side.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="defiance, post: 7345802, member: 549442"] Well, I made some progress... Here's the main piece and the back piece. [IMG]http:////forums/attachments/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/26525021d1306638785-little-bit-different-build-nissan-leaf-dscn1642.jpg[/IMG] The back of the trunk slants up toward the latch at a steep angle, so the crossover will mount on that part while the main board mounts in the floor itself. In order to get the flush mount, the surfaces of all the components have to be at the same height, so I "stilted" the crossovers and fuses to get them to the exact 2-1/8" height of the amps. [IMG]http:////forums/attachments/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/26525020d1306638782-little-bit-different-build-nissan-leaf-dscn1646.jpg[/IMG] Also, you'll note what's missing from this pic: the fuse blocks have no input power wires. I had thought my main fuse had two 0-gauge connections, so I'd run the 0-gauge wire to it, then take a 4-gauge from the other connector to the other block. Unfortunately, I was wrong, each block only has one input (one a 4 and one a 0). So, I need another distribution block - one with two 0-gauge connections and a 4-gauge connection. Which, as luck would have it, is a far-from-common configuration. Nobody local has one, so I get to order, and the amp rack hangs in limbo. Joy [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http:////forums/attachments/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/26525019d1306638779-little-bit-different-build-nissan-leaf-dscn1649.jpg[/IMG] The white box is a home phone wire connector; the remote gain for the sub amp and the image adjustment knob for the crossover both use 6-wire telephone cable; this gives me a quick-disconnect to remove the amp rack without tearing up all the wire routing to dig the telephone wires out. In fact, most of the wires will be that way; the ground wires will all bolt to a common point to the left of the rack, the input RCAs connect via barrel connectors in the same general area, the main power wire will connect to the single block (the one i'm missing) just to the left of the rack, and both sides have a rack of screw terminals for speaker wire connections. Connecting/Disconnecting all the wires for this should be a 5-minute job. Oh, also of note, the extra bundle of wires going off either end is to connect to the EQT's, which will be mounted vertically on either side. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Builds
Car Audio Build Logs
Little bit different build - Nissan leaf
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list
