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Lithium Titanate (LTO) battery bank build.
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<blockquote data-quote="Boominburban" data-source="post: 8658920" data-attributes="member: 664509"><p>Not much .... lol</p><p></p><p>You're thinking small. You need chargers/monitors, load testers, meters ect.. Drill press, band saws,drills and taps(and jigs, made for every configuration of battery you build, for drilling the holes) OR a CNC mill to make all the connecting bars/bussing in. Strong work benches that are non conductive (or mats for them that are non conductive).And all the power/hand tools required to do the job efficiently.</p><p></p><p>And 1/4" 6061 is on the small side, I generally use 3/8" and up for connectors, and much larger for bussing. 1-1/2" x 2", 1" x 3", 2" x 2-1/2", ect .... a 72" piece of those is generally $100 and up by itself. And that only makes one set of 36" buss bars. I'm building batteries for systems clamping 20k+, so running 2500+ amps through the buss bars.</p><p></p><p>And don't use stainless hardware, plain old zinc coated hardware is a better conductor. Make sure to use oxgard on all your connections.</p><p></p><p>I won't be doing anything soon. World Finals is in two days.</p><p></p><p>Get on FB, look up the DIY LTO lithium groups. Find Michael McCormick, he has a few cases of the pouch style LTO cells left . And Colin,( from Wolfram Audio) just helped organize a group buy for the same cells hispls is using. The supplier hispls is using has proven to be the best one to go through, as well, for that cell.The only one I would trust with my money</p><p></p><p>The cells hispls are using are much easier to build with than the pouched cells some of us are using. But, the pouched cells have been around for a decade + and are a proven cell. And we have been using them with great results in car audio for about a year now. People are just starting to test with these new cylinder type cells. Just do your research, and choose whats best for your needs.Build it correctly, don't try and cut corners to save a dime, and you will be very happy with your end product.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Boominburban, post: 8658920, member: 664509"] Not much .... lol You're thinking small. You need chargers/monitors, load testers, meters ect.. Drill press, band saws,drills and taps(and jigs, made for every configuration of battery you build, for drilling the holes) OR a CNC mill to make all the connecting bars/bussing in. Strong work benches that are non conductive (or mats for them that are non conductive).And all the power/hand tools required to do the job efficiently. And 1/4" 6061 is on the small side, I generally use 3/8" and up for connectors, and much larger for bussing. 1-1/2" x 2", 1" x 3", 2" x 2-1/2", ect .... a 72" piece of those is generally $100 and up by itself. And that only makes one set of 36" buss bars. I'm building batteries for systems clamping 20k+, so running 2500+ amps through the buss bars. And don't use stainless hardware, plain old zinc coated hardware is a better conductor. Make sure to use oxgard on all your connections. I won't be doing anything soon. World Finals is in two days. Get on FB, look up the DIY LTO lithium groups. Find Michael McCormick, he has a few cases of the pouch style LTO cells left . And Colin,( from Wolfram Audio) just helped organize a group buy for the same cells hispls is using. The supplier hispls is using has proven to be the best one to go through, as well, for that cell.The only one I would trust with my money The cells hispls are using are much easier to build with than the pouched cells some of us are using. But, the pouched cells have been around for a decade + and are a proven cell. And we have been using them with great results in car audio for about a year now. People are just starting to test with these new cylinder type cells. Just do your research, and choose whats best for your needs.Build it correctly, don't try and cut corners to save a dime, and you will be very happy with your end product. [/QUOTE]
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