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Lithium Titanate (LTO) battery bank build.
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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8658476" data-attributes="member: 614752"><p>I'm saying it's not really possible. What will you use that can pass 300A to charge and 500A or more discharge that can instantly open the circuit if it sniffs out trouble? Best you could do is possibly rig up something to sniff out voltage in all cells real time and output to a display so you can see if you have a dud cell. There is one off-the-shelf solution out there that supposedly outputs via bluetooth but reviews are very hit or miss and everything in the GUI is in Chinese. Anyway, there's really nothing pre-made that'll do what we need and almost all the stuff that does exist (at laughably low current levels) is all designed around 3.4V cells</p><p></p><p></p><p>On paper, yes. 10C rating means they can deliver 10X the amp hour rating so 80AH can deliver 800A. Of course the lower multiple you try to use the better and longer they'll perform. I really need to get one installed and I'll get a far better feeling for real world results.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Cells arrive @ 40% SOC (state of charge). Considering your alternator will never exceed 10C you shouldn't need any fancy charging to keep them safe.</p><p></p><p></p><p>3p6s would be 120AH of these cells I have. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Yes, assuming they last for 3 years you're certainly ahead of the game there considering you'd probably want at least 3 group 31 batteries to really hang with a 5K amp. Mind you, you get zero warranty and you have the PITA factor of having to assemble things yourself. I'm a bit concerned that we're also leaving some capacity on the table with 12V application since getting the cells up to 100% SOC would require charging 15.5 or a hair over that which many amps (and possibly some factory electronics won't like). Optimum would be going 18V and pulling off a terminal at 5S (which would sit around 12.2V) to run everything besides your sub amp. I may do this at some point when I have time to send out my alternator for a tune up and install an external regulator and more cable to make that happen.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Seems the ones floating around at the consumer level are "b grade", though if you're not a proper manufacturer buying tens of thousands from the actual factory and with someone there to confirm everything who else is getting anything different?</p><p></p><p>Anyway, specs claim only 10C rating on those. Have you tested more?</p><p></p><p><img src="https://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=232198&sid=e700e98c3dfcfa9422a18753138b7908" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8658476, member: 614752"] I'm saying it's not really possible. What will you use that can pass 300A to charge and 500A or more discharge that can instantly open the circuit if it sniffs out trouble? Best you could do is possibly rig up something to sniff out voltage in all cells real time and output to a display so you can see if you have a dud cell. There is one off-the-shelf solution out there that supposedly outputs via bluetooth but reviews are very hit or miss and everything in the GUI is in Chinese. Anyway, there's really nothing pre-made that'll do what we need and almost all the stuff that does exist (at laughably low current levels) is all designed around 3.4V cells On paper, yes. 10C rating means they can deliver 10X the amp hour rating so 80AH can deliver 800A. Of course the lower multiple you try to use the better and longer they'll perform. I really need to get one installed and I'll get a far better feeling for real world results. Cells arrive @ 40% SOC (state of charge). Considering your alternator will never exceed 10C you shouldn't need any fancy charging to keep them safe. 3p6s would be 120AH of these cells I have. Yes, assuming they last for 3 years you're certainly ahead of the game there considering you'd probably want at least 3 group 31 batteries to really hang with a 5K amp. Mind you, you get zero warranty and you have the PITA factor of having to assemble things yourself. I'm a bit concerned that we're also leaving some capacity on the table with 12V application since getting the cells up to 100% SOC would require charging 15.5 or a hair over that which many amps (and possibly some factory electronics won't like). Optimum would be going 18V and pulling off a terminal at 5S (which would sit around 12.2V) to run everything besides your sub amp. I may do this at some point when I have time to send out my alternator for a tune up and install an external regulator and more cable to make that happen. Seems the ones floating around at the consumer level are "b grade", though if you're not a proper manufacturer buying tens of thousands from the actual factory and with someone there to confirm everything who else is getting anything different? Anyway, specs claim only 10C rating on those. Have you tested more? [IMG]http:////applications/core/interface/imageproxy/imageproxy.php?img=https://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=232198%26sid=e700e98c3dfcfa9422a18753138b7908&key=0db57d7088c0c3a74af623929e4bc297545236a3798d333a40d92075708bc90b[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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Lithium Titanate (LTO) battery bank build.
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