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Lights dimming
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<blockquote data-quote="metalheadjoe" data-source="post: 8785038" data-attributes="member: 581422"><p>The bolt threads' contact is a good enough conductor for a ground. However, that bolt is grounding to the body, whereas the big three doesn't add any conductivity between the battery and the body. What I recommend is to connect your ground bolt to the frame to complete the circuit. If you have enough exposed threads under the vehicle, you can attach a ring terminal with a nut and connect the bolt to the frame. If you don't have enough exposed threads under the vehicle, you can either get a longer bolt or some threaded rod that matches the bolt threads. I used threaded rod on my vehicle. One benefit of threaded rod over a longer bolt is you can still remove whatever is bolted down without working on the underside of the vehicle. Pictures show the chassis-ground in my Explorer. Underside bolts look nasty because I coated all exposed metal with liquid tape. I also recommend using loctite.</p><p></p><p>The most noticeable improvement to my electrical system was adding LiFePO4. Upgrading my alternator to a 320a helped stabilize voltage but did not stop headlight dimming, as the delay between amplifier demand and alternator supply is long enough that you will still notice the lights dimming. A capacitor would help bridge the delay between demand and supply, but the c-word is a no-no around here due to unreasonable expectations. I would add a second battery closer to the amp and go from there.</p><p></p><p>Sorry for the novel. Good luck.</p><p> - Joe</p><p>[ATTACH]36660[/ATTACH][ATTACH]36659[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="metalheadjoe, post: 8785038, member: 581422"] The bolt threads' contact is a good enough conductor for a ground. However, that bolt is grounding to the body, whereas the big three doesn't add any conductivity between the battery and the body. What I recommend is to connect your ground bolt to the frame to complete the circuit. If you have enough exposed threads under the vehicle, you can attach a ring terminal with a nut and connect the bolt to the frame. If you don't have enough exposed threads under the vehicle, you can either get a longer bolt or some threaded rod that matches the bolt threads. I used threaded rod on my vehicle. One benefit of threaded rod over a longer bolt is you can still remove whatever is bolted down without working on the underside of the vehicle. Pictures show the chassis-ground in my Explorer. Underside bolts look nasty because I coated all exposed metal with liquid tape. I also recommend using loctite. The most noticeable improvement to my electrical system was adding LiFePO4. Upgrading my alternator to a 320a helped stabilize voltage but did not stop headlight dimming, as the delay between amplifier demand and alternator supply is long enough that you will still notice the lights dimming. A capacitor would help bridge the delay between demand and supply, but the c-word is a no-no around here due to unreasonable expectations. I would add a second battery closer to the amp and go from there. Sorry for the novel. Good luck. - Joe [ATTACH]36660[/ATTACH][ATTACH]36659[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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