Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Lights dimming, amp getting hot
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="audiolife" data-source="post: 5943893" data-attributes="member: 541383"><p>reason the amp gets hot is because its drawing more current to make up for the lack of voltage. When you are running stock electrical + big3 i would get a better battery and make sure its a DECENT size I just had a buddy add a HC1200 in back to his D1200 that is upfront to stop his amps from going thermal. If he were going one battery he should have went HC1800 or D3400. Also didnt help that his 0 ga wire was really somewhere between a 4 and 2 with enough insulation to insulate 3x the length of wire he had LOL...if you spend $1000's+ on your audio gear its a good idea to spend the $30-50 bucks in good wire and ~$100 or so more on a proper battery. His old battery the amps wouldn't shut down but it would dim more at a moderate volume and less at max volume. Caps can slow down light dimming but they really won't do much for the audio system on that level. Another thing you can look into is an MLA (Missing Link Audio) harness to see if they make one for your alt. It bumps up your voltage a tad.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="audiolife, post: 5943893, member: 541383"] reason the amp gets hot is because its drawing more current to make up for the lack of voltage. When you are running stock electrical + big3 i would get a better battery and make sure its a DECENT size I just had a buddy add a HC1200 in back to his D1200 that is upfront to stop his amps from going thermal. If he were going one battery he should have went HC1800 or D3400. Also didnt help that his 0 ga wire was really somewhere between a 4 and 2 with enough insulation to insulate 3x the length of wire he had LOL...if you spend $1000's+ on your audio gear its a good idea to spend the $30-50 bucks in good wire and ~$100 or so more on a proper battery. His old battery the amps wouldn't shut down but it would dim more at a moderate volume and less at max volume. Caps can slow down light dimming but they really won't do much for the audio system on that level. Another thing you can look into is an MLA (Missing Link Audio) harness to see if they make one for your alt. It bumps up your voltage a tad. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Lights dimming, amp getting hot
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list