Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Join
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
LIghts dim
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="vasyachkin" data-source="post: 52361" data-attributes="member: 544250"><p>FIRST OF ALL, you have to ask yourself - do you have a switching (class D) amp or a normal class AB one.</p><p></p><p>class D is about twice as efficient, and will go about twice as loud before your lights will dim. if your amp is a mono subwoofer-only amp it is probably class D already.</p><p></p><p>wiring and cap will be a marginal improvement only, maybe youll squeeze another 50 watts or so but in terms of decibles that will be less than half a decibel.</p><p></p><p>getting a second battery - placed in the trunk right next to the amp should help ALOT, that is what i would do myself really.</p><p></p><p>and the final option, is to make or get a new subwoofer that has more efficient BUT BE VERY VERY CAREFUL the efficiency ratings are BULLSH1T they are worse than meaningless. however there is still such a thing as efficiency, and it matters quite a bit. usually the heavier the subwoofer the more efficient it is - that is not 100% true but much better way to judge efficiency than to trust manufacturer specs. also the more subs you use (assuming your total ohms is what your amps needs, not less not more) the more efficient they are as a total. funny enough, the very reason why more subs are more efficient is because they weigh more when combined //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="vasyachkin, post: 52361, member: 544250"] FIRST OF ALL, you have to ask yourself - do you have a switching (class D) amp or a normal class AB one. class D is about twice as efficient, and will go about twice as loud before your lights will dim. if your amp is a mono subwoofer-only amp it is probably class D already. wiring and cap will be a marginal improvement only, maybe youll squeeze another 50 watts or so but in terms of decibles that will be less than half a decibel. getting a second battery - placed in the trunk right next to the amp should help ALOT, that is what i would do myself really. and the final option, is to make or get a new subwoofer that has more efficient BUT BE VERY VERY CAREFUL the efficiency ratings are BULLSH1T they are worse than meaningless. however there is still such a thing as efficiency, and it matters quite a bit. usually the heavier the subwoofer the more efficient it is - that is not 100% true but much better way to judge efficiency than to trust manufacturer specs. also the more subs you use (assuming your total ohms is what your amps needs, not less not more) the more efficient they are as a total. funny enough, the very reason why more subs are more efficient is because they weigh more when combined [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
LIghts dim
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh