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Just a Little important Fact that many of you may not know
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<blockquote data-quote="jlaine" data-source="post: 95382" data-attributes="member: 542392"><p>Ok, so lets move on to the false information you have on capacitors..</p><p></p><p>Then you had a bad capacitor. Even the cheapies are rated for 4000 hours of constant use @ their rated temperature.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Actually it can, for a minute or two on a freshly charged battery. More than sufficient to start a vehicle. I fail to see any incorrect information in my posts, but I do see several holes in your theories.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Incorrect. The vehicle alternator is not properly engaged until the vehicle is in an idle state, which means the current draw from the starter has already been disengaged. An alternator is not assisting squat at starting turnover, I could easily demonstrate this fact by turning your alternator over at the sadly slow speed the motor is turned at when the starter is engaged. You think idle current is bad...</p><p></p><p></p><p>Somewhat right, but you are incorrect about the starter, so the point is moot.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Incorrect. The battery will remain at it's operational voltage until the cells are drained beyond their capability to produce full voltage. If you drop to 9 volts during starting, your battery is dying. Any quick probe with an oscilloscope will show that while there is some drop, nowhere near the level you are purporting. I can easily monitor a starter that makes your car starter look like a tonka toy, as I have access to a 175B Michigan Payloader, 24V system, 800A starter.</p><p></p><p>And again, you are incorrect about the alternator functioning at this point, so this discussion is invalid.</p><p></p><p>Has no bearing on the discussion, I'll pass on it.</p><p></p><p> </p><p></p><p>Now to finish off where we were going...</p><p></p><p>Like I had said before, ANY vehicle spike from the alternator is going to be immediately absorbed by the battery and other storage devices in the supply chain. In other words, the point is moot. What does this have to do with anything on your initial post?</p><p></p><p>Sending 18V to an amplifier is going to kill it. Do not pass go, do not collect $200.</p><p></p><p>Lets stick to the subject matter at hand, I'll let Zane deal with the tidbits about the internal electrical system, my beef with you is the whole conspiracy theory about amplifier manufacturers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jlaine, post: 95382, member: 542392"] Ok, so lets move on to the false information you have on capacitors.. Then you had a bad capacitor. Even the cheapies are rated for 4000 hours of constant use @ their rated temperature. Actually it can, for a minute or two on a freshly charged battery. More than sufficient to start a vehicle. I fail to see any incorrect information in my posts, but I do see several holes in your theories. Incorrect. The vehicle alternator is not properly engaged until the vehicle is in an idle state, which means the current draw from the starter has already been disengaged. An alternator is not assisting squat at starting turnover, I could easily demonstrate this fact by turning your alternator over at the sadly slow speed the motor is turned at when the starter is engaged. You think idle current is bad... Somewhat right, but you are incorrect about the starter, so the point is moot. Incorrect. The battery will remain at it's operational voltage until the cells are drained beyond their capability to produce full voltage. If you drop to 9 volts during starting, your battery is dying. Any quick probe with an oscilloscope will show that while there is some drop, nowhere near the level you are purporting. I can easily monitor a starter that makes your car starter look like a tonka toy, as I have access to a 175B Michigan Payloader, 24V system, 800A starter. And again, you are incorrect about the alternator functioning at this point, so this discussion is invalid. Has no bearing on the discussion, I'll pass on it. Now to finish off where we were going... Like I had said before, ANY vehicle spike from the alternator is going to be immediately absorbed by the battery and other storage devices in the supply chain. In other words, the point is moot. What does this have to do with anything on your initial post? Sending 18V to an amplifier is going to kill it. Do not pass go, do not collect $200. Lets stick to the subject matter at hand, I'll let Zane deal with the tidbits about the internal electrical system, my beef with you is the whole conspiracy theory about amplifier manufacturers. [/QUOTE]
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