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Just a Little important Fact that many of you may not know
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<blockquote data-quote="CarAudioAddict" data-source="post: 95194" data-attributes="member: 545743"><p>OK.</p><p></p><p>You proved your point about the fets.</p><p></p><p>The caps though will be at roughly the same temp as the amplifier case. And I have seen caps fail when they reach their operational temperature.</p><p></p><p>But as for there nopt being a voltage spike when you first start the vehicle, you mentioned things that proved yourself wrong.</p><p></p><p>Yes, when you first start the car you will notice a drop in the voltage, This is before your alternator starts putting out current, and the battery cannot deliver the 200+amps that a starter needs for very long.</p><p></p><p>But. Before you even release the key to stop the starter motor, the alternator is already putting out current, trying to get the battery voltage back up. When the key is release the starters load (possibly the highest load your cars electrical system will ever see, unless you are running close to 2000 amps) is dropped off the system. The alternator is still trying to get the battery's voltage up, but because the starter has been disengaged, the battery's voltage has already returned about to normal (it will be lower than before you started the car but that is minor). BAM!!!!!! huge voltage spike as the alternator balances out.</p><p></p><p>The voltage regulator in the alternator cannot instantly change the voltage on the feild current (which is what the regulator is doing by the way). When the voltage regulator "senses" a lower voltage in the system, it increases the Alts field circuit voltage to increase it's output.</p><p></p><p>Say when you start the vehicle the batteries voltage drops to say 9-volts during starting (actually drops lower on some vehicles), The voltage regulator in the alternator increases the circuit voltage to compensate, thus trying to maintain output from the alt at 14.4 Volts. Now suddenly the load is gone (starter motor has been disengaged), and the voltage regulator is still supplying the extra voltage to the field circuit.</p><p></p><p>Under normal running condition the field curcuit voltage is lower than 8-volts. When a heavy load is placed on the electrical system, the volatge drops (we've all noticed this, especially those who have a prob with dimming lights). The regulator increases the field circuit voltage to bring the charging system voltage back up to 14.4V. Keep in mid that the feild circuit voltage cannot exceed the voltage of the electrical system because the electrical system is what powers the regulator. When the voltage of the electrical system drops far enough that the field circuit has the same voltage, the regulator is siad to be running in "full-field mode".</p><p></p><p>When the load is gone the system returns to the battery voltage. Now you've got a 12volt system being charged with a 12 volt field curcuit. Note that this is 25% higher (or more) than normal.</p><p></p><p>12V + 25% = 15Volts!!!!!!!!!</p><p></p><p>Now until the regulator switches out of "full field mode" the voltage will keep increasing (Note also that amperage out of the alt will DECREASE, power in= power out + loss due to resistance/friction) On older or more worn alternators this change can take longer, and it only takes a few milliseconds to get to over 100 volts. Once the regulator is out of "full field mode" the voltage returns to normal within a few milliseconds - Notice that the whole process only takes less than 1/10th of a second, you won't notice that on ANY voltmeter (by the time the meter would read the high voltage it has already returned to normal).</p><p></p><p>Brand new Alternators can make this switch alot faster and so the volatge may never increase past 15-20 volts which is not bad most 12volt equippment won't even flinch at this.</p><p></p><p>These (this post not the main post) are facts taken right out of "Chiltons Guide to Automotive Electrical Systems"</p><p></p><p>Price at approx $150, I don't think these guys are printing myths, or false info</p><p></p><p> </p><p>The guy had just is amps running on 18volts, not the car. and it is definatly possible.</p><p></p><p>As for where I got the info on freezing. It was from a sales rep at JL audio.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CarAudioAddict, post: 95194, member: 545743"] OK. You proved your point about the fets. The caps though will be at roughly the same temp as the amplifier case. And I have seen caps fail when they reach their operational temperature. But as for there nopt being a voltage spike when you first start the vehicle, you mentioned things that proved yourself wrong. Yes, when you first start the car you will notice a drop in the voltage, This is before your alternator starts putting out current, and the battery cannot deliver the 200+amps that a starter needs for very long. But. Before you even release the key to stop the starter motor, the alternator is already putting out current, trying to get the battery voltage back up. When the key is release the starters load (possibly the highest load your cars electrical system will ever see, unless you are running close to 2000 amps) is dropped off the system. The alternator is still trying to get the battery's voltage up, but because the starter has been disengaged, the battery's voltage has already returned about to normal (it will be lower than before you started the car but that is minor). BAM!!!!!! huge voltage spike as the alternator balances out. The voltage regulator in the alternator cannot instantly change the voltage on the feild current (which is what the regulator is doing by the way). When the voltage regulator "senses" a lower voltage in the system, it increases the Alts field circuit voltage to increase it's output. Say when you start the vehicle the batteries voltage drops to say 9-volts during starting (actually drops lower on some vehicles), The voltage regulator in the alternator increases the circuit voltage to compensate, thus trying to maintain output from the alt at 14.4 Volts. Now suddenly the load is gone (starter motor has been disengaged), and the voltage regulator is still supplying the extra voltage to the field circuit. Under normal running condition the field curcuit voltage is lower than 8-volts. When a heavy load is placed on the electrical system, the volatge drops (we've all noticed this, especially those who have a prob with dimming lights). The regulator increases the field circuit voltage to bring the charging system voltage back up to 14.4V. Keep in mid that the feild circuit voltage cannot exceed the voltage of the electrical system because the electrical system is what powers the regulator. When the voltage of the electrical system drops far enough that the field circuit has the same voltage, the regulator is siad to be running in "full-field mode". When the load is gone the system returns to the battery voltage. Now you've got a 12volt system being charged with a 12 volt field curcuit. Note that this is 25% higher (or more) than normal. 12V + 25% = 15Volts!!!!!!!!! Now until the regulator switches out of "full field mode" the voltage will keep increasing (Note also that amperage out of the alt will DECREASE, power in= power out + loss due to resistance/friction) On older or more worn alternators this change can take longer, and it only takes a few milliseconds to get to over 100 volts. Once the regulator is out of "full field mode" the voltage returns to normal within a few milliseconds - Notice that the whole process only takes less than 1/10th of a second, you won't notice that on ANY voltmeter (by the time the meter would read the high voltage it has already returned to normal). Brand new Alternators can make this switch alot faster and so the volatge may never increase past 15-20 volts which is not bad most 12volt equippment won't even flinch at this. These (this post not the main post) are facts taken right out of "Chiltons Guide to Automotive Electrical Systems" Price at approx $150, I don't think these guys are printing myths, or false info The guy had just is amps running on 18volts, not the car. and it is definatly possible. As for where I got the info on freezing. It was from a sales rep at JL audio. [/QUOTE]
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